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Thread: The Ultimate FC

  1. #671
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    I have a full set of new tyres and tubes which I found, ready to fit.
    I am not going to fit these as a set, but get the most out of the tyres already fitted by mixing them with the old ones.
    To do that I have to get the drive disconnects fitted and working .
    The Melbourne stalwart owner who drives his stalwart everywhere said to me the tyre wear was poor until he fitted inter wheel disconnects and on road performance improves.
    I notice when driving mine the vehicle is more lively off road where it can get wheel slip easier.
    All drive line failures I can track down are due too, incorrect fitting of parts, water in drive system , lack of lubrication and lack of oil via leaking oil seals.
    Alvis did look at interwheel disconnects, via a fergerson viscus coupling, but costs and interchangeability with other Alvis models in service stopped this.
    The Stalwart didn't get a diesel motor either because at the end of the day the Army was very happy with the vehicle the way it was.
    It must be remembered the Stalwart was designed to follow a tank which doesn't spend any time on tarred roads and when it entered service petrol still ruled.
    I am learning the B81 rolls is not your normal petrol engine,,,its designed to be tough.
    The Stalwarts strength is as a amphibious vehicle, it has a very good off road ability in its own right ........more so than a DUKW or LARC.
    I was was looking at a DUKW the other day and the DUKW is a bit better in the water than a stalwart, but the DUKWs long over hangs, and belly with rubber bellows around the tailshafts etc is more limiting than a stalwart off road.
    DUKWs also bent propeller shafts if a driver is not carefull.

  2. #672
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    The stalwart had to use the existing production line of the armoured Saracen/Saladin/ and Salamander fire fighter
    (the government of the day paid for the tooling and production equiptment of the production line and was the main purchaser of the stalwart)
    The unusual drive line layout is needed in these vehicles, especially the Stalwart as it maximises the space inside the hull.
    It was a follow on of a driveline and suspension set up from British armoured scout cars of WW2 which was very successful.
    The useful amount of room inside the Stalwarts hull is something like 3 ft wide, 3ft high and 20 ft long.
    It has in that space.....Large radiator and twin fan assy,straight 8 motor, dual plate clutch, gearbox, transfercase/diff, near 500 litre petrol tank, engine oil tank...20lts, a decent size hydraulic winch.
    Add 2 water jets which are large and take up a lot of space, twin large Volks oil bath air filters, drive train for water jets of 2 large bevel boxes and a single PTO, large hydraulic pump, bilge pump, cross hull 20 plus litre oil tank for central lube system ,mountings for a truck crane,engine driven air compressor and 1.5 mtr long drive shaft , 2 large air over hydraulic brake servos, large across the hull hydraulic steering cylinder/recirulating ball steering set up,radiator air blast outlet, enough room for cool air to pass though the whole hull, the maze of wiring, hydraulic, air pipes and linkages, extremely large altenator, four bevel drive boxes for rear and front wheels with drive shafts.
    All that fits in under the floor of the cargo area and cabin.
    I wonder if it would be possible to do that with a normal drive train.

    It is the engineering in the stalwart is the reason why they are worth restoring and preserving for the future and for the most part it all works well.
    There will be no other vehicle like the stalwart made again.

    The markings on the hubs are dual purpose....yes to indicate where the fill/drain plugs are as the vehicle must be driven with the plugs to top or bottom if you want to fill or drain.
    They are a quick and easy indicator of drive line problems if the marks get out of step to each other.
    My current status is I am leaving the Stalwart mobile and running for a little while as I have other things going on and I am having a little bit of needed fun driving it around.
    The spare wheel has been needle gunned and painted and done a bit more of the same on the LHS of the hull.

    This thread is giving the drive to keep chipping away restoring the stalwart and the support you blokes give me.
    As I said in early pages of this thread, I don't have a big cheque book which makes it harder
    Thanks.
    It is a recording of what will be my last big restoration and a possible guide to others who may own a stalwart.
    Ron

  3. #673
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by 101 Ron View Post
    I don't have a big cheque book which makes it harder

    Ron
    But I am sure it will be more rewarding.

    I didn't realise there was that much packed in to a small volume.
    Yes, I agree, about no other vehicle like a Stallwart will be built again, cost, complexity and general evolution.

    Hay Ewe

  4. #674
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    Dec 2009
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    Williamstown, Barossa, SA
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    So, are these driveline disconnects, are they like a free wheel hub but on a larger scale? And if so, which axles do you disconnect? Fore and aft and run of the center or both fronts and run on the rears? Will just one 'axle' cope with all the drive power?

  5. #675
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    Disconnect everything and drive on the centre wheels, this also removes any strain though bevel boxes as the centre wheels are a straight though drive from the transfercase.
    Many stalwarts have now been converted this way without problems.
    these pic are from the Melbourne Stalwart which has disconnects fitted and air operated using the original muff couplings for the front and rear bevel box drive shafts as sliding dog clutches.




  6. #676
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    There'd be a bit of work making all the linkage but I'd think it'd work well. Perhaps a little 'lead' slope ground on the end of each shaft to help the muff coupling slide on easier....? Good having one near'ish to copy too!

  7. #677
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    the shaft must be supported by the muff coupling when disconnected drive wise.......shaft is large and very heavy.
    Pics of other people disconnects



    The above looks to be cable operated.



    small air cylinder operated below

  8. #678
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    current status..........leaving it running, but doing as much as I can ,now on the other side of the hull.

    The above was needle gunned and then just quickly finished with a cheapo sandblaster.
    The Wheel is all alloy made by Dunlop UK.
    My big cabinet sandblaster is out of action at present as I am short of money to get it sorted out.
    I miss it greatly for the smaller items I remove from the Stalwart.
    The grill for the LHS water jet is removed presently and it is hard work getting it ready for painting without the cabinet blaster.



  9. #679
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  10. #680
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    The Stalwart has been kept mobile, one of the reasons is a tree cutting company wants to cut the trees under the 33kv power lines at work and the big beast is in the way.
    The heater has been pulled apart and the leaking core checked out.
    I was going to have a go at it my self, but it looks like some one has tried it before and I know the radiator repair places are cheap and use a different/better grade of solder to what is advailible to me.
    The fan/heater housing to my supprize is plastic construction which is a little bit out place with the rest of the vehicle.
    The little vent flaps ect are hand oxy welded when made new.
    The ducting in the cabin is extensive for venting and demisting.
    Two fans are used, the small one pictured and a larger booster one hidden inside the bulkhead at the rear of the cabin.
    All this part of the stalwart is ahead of its time with boosted fresh air or recirculate ect.



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