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Thread: Fitting Shock Absorbers...

  1. #1
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    Fitting Shock Absorbers...

    Just used the search to see if anyone had a thread running on this but I didn't find one... Ok, on the first drive, of the 101 there was quite a bit of rattling from under the drivers seat. Upon investigation I found the shocker bushes to be more than a little worn.. I've removed the front shocks, wire brushed and reprinted them and now it comes to the refit with the new blue bushes sourced from AJ.. (Must add here that he was very organised and very quick to post out the bits I needed so a thumbs up there!!). Inner bushes pushed on, then the shocker followed by the second bush and that's as far as I got as I need new split pins.... but..... How do people push the washer far enough on to allow the re fitment of the split pin?? Just thought I'd ask before I started making special pressing tools.... Thanks in advance!! Oh, and if anyone finds a thread lee lathing to this, Mods please feel free to delete this one!!

  2. #2
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    Check out my disc brake thread its in there.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forwar...-brakes-4.html

  3. #3
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    I have done a few other shock bushes now and had to use different metric threads and bolts top to bottom as the holes are different sizes.

  4. #4
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    Knew I'd seen it somewhere!!!! Just couldn't remember where! I'd thought about doing that, but putting a bolt all the way thru.. (like the Series vehicles). How did you do the bottom bush on the front? If the lower pin was longer, I'd run a dye down it and fit a large nyloc nut to it! Also learnt that the rear lower shocker bushes are the same part as the fuel tank rear bush too! Good old Land Rover saving costs there!!

  5. #5
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    Invalid thread Id is 4 apparently??
    Maybe your link has expired

  6. #6
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    For my S3, I turned a cylindrical sleeve on the lathe, which is a clearance fit over the lower mounting pin. I made the sleeve too long so that I could then drill a hole - at right angles to the axis - through the sleeve completely. This hole was big enough so that a pair of long nose pliers could insert the split-pin through it. When the hole was drilled, I cut the waste off the bottom of the sleeve and filed the bottom of the holes, so that they now looked like two arches.

    When the damper bushes and washer are installed, the sleeve is put on top, taking care to align the arches with the split-pin hole and the bush is compressed with a large F-clamp, which works on the far side of the leaf spring pack. The split-pin can then be installed - if anyone would like a photo posted let me know,

    Cheers Charlie

  7. #7
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    Thanks Charlie. That was along the lines of what I was going to make. Thought I'd ask before I got into special tool mfr!!

  8. #8
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    What shocks are people fitting to their 101's? I'm not going to pay the going rate for the re-produced ones the UK club has organised when those same dollars could get high end shocks out of the US.

  9. #9
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    At the moment mine are ok... but would be keen to know the answer too!!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuee View Post
    What shocks are people fitting to their 101's? I'm not going to pay the going rate for the re-produced ones the UK club has organised when those same dollars could get high end shocks out of the US.
    In general terms, the single leaf springs (correct name for them) fitted to 101s behave like coils, so any shock that would be fine for a coil sprung vehicle of the same weight would be fine for a 101. E.g. a coily nissan patrol shock - assuming they are the corrrect length and eye type (unlikely).

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