|90 110 130 Defender County Chat specifically relating to Coil sprung 90 110 130 Defender and County including V8 and TDi200/300 TD5 and the new Ford engined land rovers.|
| ||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
I drew that simplified diagram, showing how the switch works, because I found it easier than trying to explain it
I added it to a wiring diagram, showing how to use it in a Fog Light or Driving/Spot Light circuit, using a standard automotive relay.
The fullsize diagram is on my PhotoBucket page, here -
(click on the thumbnail for a fullsize image in a new browser window)
The relay's trigger feed is shown from the Main Beam (to suit Driving or Spot Lamps), but would be taken from the Sidelights or Dipped Beam circuit (depending on local Vehicle Lighting Regulations) for Fog Lamps.
Don't be fooled into thinking that all of the range of switches in the 2002-> Defender and Discovery II are wired the same, they're not.
You can probably see, from the following pictures, that all the switches start off with a common Brass matrix, which then has holes drilled through it at certain points and links on the sides cut (or not) to change the circuit's route and function of the 5 pins.
I pulled a YUG000540LNF switch apart and took some (bad ) pictures of how it's constructed and how the circuits are achieved.
This picture is of the inside of the switch, which I've annotated to show how the contacts connect accross pins 1 & 4 when in the ON position -
(click on the thumbnails for a fullsize image in a new browser window)
Looking at the circuit inside the switch -
It would be easy to convert this switch to a conventional live switching ON/OFF switch by cutting the brass track between the two holes, as marked in red in this next picture -
By cutting the track at this point, you separate pins 3 & 4
The revised circuit would be as follows -
Pin 1 - Incoming Live from Main Beam/Dipped Beam/Side Lights (as applicable)You could link pins 4 & 5 inside the switch while you had it apart, by soldering a link across the brass tracks but I've just crimped an extra short length of cable into Pin 4 and looped it round into Pin 5 on the connector.
You will still need to use an accessory relay with a switch modified in this way, but at least it will be wired in a conventional manner.
As there was mention of the Heated Seat Switches -
Discovery II & Defender (2002-2006) Heated Seat Switch YUG102440 (uses Black connector)
Is wired as follows -
Pin 1 - Live in from fused supplyThe only problem with this switch is that, now in the UK, it has gone up in price to almost £30
All is not lost though, as the Defender 2007 -> Heated Seat Switch YUF500150LNF also uses the Black connector, is also wired the same as the previous Heated Seat Switch, and costs just over £4.00
As has been said already, the switch caps can be swapped between switch bodies (that includes Discovery II Binnacle Switches)
I have drilled a 2.5mm hole in Blank Caps, so that they can be used on illuminated switch bodies -
(more bad pics )
. . .
You can also scribe the blank caps with your own custom symbol, so that it illuminates with it at night.
Here's an example of homemade symbols, for Front Fog Lamps and Cruise Control, on 2002 Heated Seat Switches -
(not mine, DynaVT on LRO - Centre console switches )
See also - Centre console switches
so i was royally confused with all the help but have worked my way through it (i do appreciate it).
i ended up taking the switch apart to find it similar to your switches, however still not working with the orange LED. i don;t mind it not working but now its a challenge.
1 = switch in (Pos)**
2 = positive park light glow
3 = earth - which i soldered to 4
4= neg switch
5 = pos orange LED.
**when i hooked up the wiring from the relay to the switch the two wires were powered 12v
if i were to change the 1 and 4 pins, then the LED would not work at all.
no matter what combo , i cant get it to work the right way. the best i got it was having the orange led turn off when spotlights come on..
any final hints, or just up on electronics? heheh
What you have in your arrangement above is a POSITIVE supply coming from Pin 4. The term "neg switch" is incorrect.
My suggestion is that you connect your modified switch as follows :-
1 = From the driving lights relay energised coil negative that is going to earth (usually a black wire). [The +ve to the driving lights relay coil would be coming from the 12v+ supply going to the high beams.]
2 = A 12v+ supply going TO one of your panel lights
3 = Nil
4 = A true earth, that is connected to a (usually black) wire that is going DIRECTLY to the negative terminal on your battery and not via any form of load.
5 = From the 12v+ supply going TO your driving lights from the driving lights relay
Hope this makes things clearer.
I think of my Defender as a time machine .......... each time I get into it I go back in time.
2015 Defender 90 - Snowy (Son of Peril)
2004 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone ... but definitely remembered)
2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
1986 County V8 (Gone ... but not forgotten)
Last edited by Mellow Yellow; 11th March 2011 at 03:44 PM. Reason: Correction
I have a 2003 D2 and am going through the same BS... I have a left and right aux light switch. I have wired up aux lights to Jeeps in the past using factory fog lamp switches. There should be:
power in illumination
the indicator lights up when the switch is closed and sends power to the relay to close.
This Rover defies all logic. The factory fog lamp switch recieves power at all 3 wires and they respond to the dimmer switch with a range between 2-12volts....Center terminal is not used. I really want to use these switches to maintain a factory appearance. I am getting switched power from the highbeams so that with switches on, they will come on and off with the highbeams.
Discovery II Front Auxiliary Lamps Binnacle switches are more difficult, as they are 'momentary' switches (don't latch) that switch a signal wire to earth, with an ECU doing the actual switching.
To use these switches in the 'traditional' way (with a relay), you have to modify them.
The easiest and cheapest way is to use your left and right switch caps on Defender 2007 -> Heated Seats switches YUF500150LNF, which are cheap and are a 'traditional' latching live-switching switch.
YUF500150LNF is wired as follows -
Pin 1 - Live in from fused supplyIt also uses the Black switch connector which is readily available on eBay UK.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i XS
I have a YUG000530LNF switch which I ordered from Britparts (which they recommended me to use for driving lights), you guys are talking about a YUG000540LNF.
Looking at the 2 on the Brittishparts.co.uk site, they look the same.
Are they wired the same?? Shoul I order the part you guys are using. Am slightly confused??
Britishparts have incorrectly used the same picture of YUG000530LNF for both switches
YUG000530LNF is the switch for Rear Fog Lamps.
This switch doesn't 'latch' - it's a 'momentary' switch which, when pressed, makes a momentary contact to earth, which is detected by the "ECU - One Touch Rear Fog Lamp" (YWC104430L), which switches-on the rear fog lamp(s) (only if the headlamps are also switched-on) and keeps them on until either, the switch is pressed again, or the ignition or headlamps are switched-off.
Britcar (UK) Ltd > YUG000530LNF SWITCH REAR FOG LIGHTS DEF 2A> (G)
Rear Fog Lamp Switch - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
YUG000540LNF is the switch for Front Auxiliary Lights.
It is a latching, earth switching switch, as detailed in the above posts.
Britcar (UK) Ltd > YUG000540LNF SWITCH FRONT FOG PUSH-PUSH DEF 2A> (G)
Front Fog Lamp Switch - Genuine Land Rover at www.rimmerbros.co.uk
|The Following User Says Thank You to PaulMc0308 For This Useful Post:|
browndogrider1 (22nd May 2012)
|Search AULRO.com ONLY! ||Search All the Web! |