ARB air locker into sals - do it yourself?

**goingbush** · 18th April 2012, 06:18 PM

Well I apologise to all for sounding like I know how to do a Salisbury.
I ate a bit of humble pie today. Seems its hard to tell the BSA's from those that know.

That said if you can sort thru the non applicable Jeep stuff there are some good tips here http://www.alljeep.com/tech/install/..._true_trac.htm

I did my Sals / Detroit TrueTrac today

Lesson 1 . I had a heck of a time getting that mother out, I had the diff spreader plus jack under the pumpkin to stress relieve it & would not come even with prybars.
I ended up using a load binder with the strap around the carrier & tow bar and winched took a fair bit of strain but It shot out like a missile.

I can't imagine they could have got it in with all that preload so I assume my housing is bent !!!

OK diff on the bench & measure up , compare measurements with new TrueTrac calculate & select shims. Fit shims & bearings .

Note to anyone fitting a truetrac , don't know about ARB , but once the bearing is on you CAN NOT get it off without wrecking it & the shims.
I advise you to buy a dana 60 set up kit ( honed out bearings ).
That way you can put the bearing on & pull off by hand to swap shims about.
Once you have your shim pack set use your real bearings.

Lesson 2, another stuff up, I had a seniors moment & mixed up the shim packs with too much on the CW side to avoid disaster I milled 0.5 mm off the outside of the left hand cup. Worked a treat.

Anyway its all good now, drives great , no noise no clunking & a lot less backlash that the open salisbury. on the uphill test track going 45 degrees across deep culverts the Traction Control used to click away as the front left & right rear wheel leave the ground - now it just keeps on going. sweet !!

**101 Ron** · 18th April 2012, 07:44 PM

I noticed you trimmed up the dags on the bottom of the diff housing .

**blue_mini** · 18th April 2012, 08:07 PM

Might be a basic question, but the spreader holds the body of the diff apart to allow the new diff to slot in?
And is there another threaded bar at the top of the spreader?

**101 Ron** · 18th April 2012, 08:41 PM

There doesnt have to be another threaded rod at the top so long as the bar holding the two halves apart has a pivot either end.

Didge · 18th April 2012, 08:53 PM

How much does the diff spread; I imagine you'd need an awful lot of force to distort it. Another question; exactly what do the shims do? Move the whole centre from left to right and vice versa? Is that how you set your backlash? thanks in advance

**goingbush** · 18th April 2012, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by Didge

How much does the diff spread; I imagine you'd need an awful lot of force to distort it. Another question; exactly what do the shims do? Move the whole centre from left to right and vice versa? Is that how you set your backlash? thanks in advance

Exactly, that is how the backlash is set.

The spreader only stretches the casing 0.3mm , enough to get the carrier in & preload the bearings.

I guess I could have made a better job of the spreader, its a bit big and a turnbuckle would have been better than the threaded bar. heres another view

Didge · 18th April 2012, 09:14 PM

Goingbush, thanks for the reply and that's a great spreader and absolutely fantastic photos. I can never get shots that good. Now, for the next question, what is preloading the bearings? Thanks in advance again; doing a good bit of learning here I am

cheers Gerald

**goingbush** · 18th April 2012, 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by Didge

Goingbush, thanks for the reply and that's a great spreader and absolutely fantastic photos. I can never get shots that good. Now, for the next question, what is preloading the bearings? Thanks in advance again; doing a good bit of learning here I am

cheers Gerald

Hey Gerald, no probs. the two adjustments are Backlash & preload.
Preload simplistically means putting some tension on the bearings , like you do for wheel bearings, You do it in the Salsbury by spreading the housing .3mm onto a carrier that is shimmed to fit the gap & then releasing the spreader so that the housing squashes onto the bearings.

Truetrac & ARB are set up the same as far as backlash & preload, once you fit the TT your are done, where the ARB you still need to do the airlines etc. but apart from that you will learn a bit by reading the jeep thing
http://www.alljeep.com/tech/install/..._true_trac.htm

cheers don

**Frenchie** · 19th April 2012, 01:13 PM

Originally Posted by 101 Ron

I noticed you trimmed up the dags on the bottom of the diff housing .

...and where did you get the nice diff cover?

(Yes I can read ARB, are they available at ARB stores in Aus?)

**Loubrey** · 19th April 2012, 01:50 PM

Yes, but seldom in stock. About a week's wait to get one... (Bought one to post overseas for a friend)

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