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Thread: Heat, Exhaust, Shield, Tape, Exbox, Hot

  1. #1
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    Heat, Exhaust, Shield, Tape, Exbox, Hot

    Defender 2015 110.

    Just installed an exbox from Mulgo.
    During the install, saw that there is bugger all between the bottom of the cubby on the puma and both the exhaust and the transmission. Actually there is a heap bit of space. I read several posts about regrets of not shielding the exbox. Dont want the electrics getting hot.
    If you dont have an ex-box, doesnt matter this topic will relate to those that dont have one either. When I mention ex-box, just think bottom of cubby.

    So I started looking at options.

    1. Supercheap "platinum heat shield". Mounting it below the bottom of the ex-box, not flush, but say raised a few cm's away from the bottom using some washers etc, allow some air flow barrier.
    https://www.google.com.au/url'sa=t&r...14733917,d.dGo

    2. Then I got under the car and looked at the exhaust. Actually its a good looking stainless exhaust, but its showing signs of hottness. Hmmm, why not just shield the exhaust? So looked at these options:-
    a) exhaust heat shield kit, hot exhaust, cool car, heat protection, exhaust pipe protection, embossed or
    b) Reflective Aluminized Heat Shield Barriers

    3. Ummed and ahhh-ed about using exhaust tape. But dont know, would it work? Also, wouldnt it be another spot for the odd tree branch to catch and rip off.

    I want to reduce temps in the cabin, I ordered some Dynamat xtreme last night, (not only for heat but also noise) . I want to do a good job.

    Should I just go to an exhaust guy and tell him to fix it?
    2015 Defender 110

  2. #2
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    I just wrapped my exhaust on the weekend from the flexible joint behind the cat back to the next flange near the muffler. It has made a noticeable difference to heat in the cabin.

    The stuff I use is this:
    Magma Wrap --- Thermal Velocity Australia | Hi-Performance Exhaust Wraps and Heat Shields
    I've used this to wrap extractors on 4wd turbo rally cars and it runs rings around the cheap stuff you get at SuperCheap etc. It may be overkill for this application (post turbo) but I had some spare.

    Am also in the throes of fitting an Exbox. Have applied some heat sheilding to the bottom of it, but I think it needs more than that. The whole seatbox heats up so the problem will be heat transfer from that as well as the radiated heat from underneath.

    I don't have a solution yet, but I think the exbox needs to be thermally isolated from the seatbox as well.

    Cheers,
    Jon

  3. #3
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    Thinking of fitting one of these Exboxes .......how hard is it to do it yourself

  4. #4
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    Not too hard, but it depends on how far you want to take things...

    Have a look in my build thread in my signature to see my install.

  5. #5
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    I installed my ExBox 5 years ago and applied some heat shield to the base of it - I don't recall what it was called but I got a sheet of it from Repco and cut it to size - it's a little like a soft metal - malleable but stays firm.

    That worked for a while but I've found recently that the ExBox is heating up and there's a lot of hot air coming in under the driver's seat, so I need a new solution too.

    Watching this thread with interest...
    Bobby


  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Cone of Silence View Post
    I installed my ExBox 5 years ago and applied some heat shield to the base of it - I don't recall what it was called but I got a sheet of it from Repco and cut it to size - it's a little like a soft metal - malleable but stays firm.

    That worked for a while but I've found recently that the ExBox is heating up and there's a lot of hot air coming in under the driver's seat, so I need a new solution too.

    Watching this thread with interest...
    I looked at the stuff from Repco, and also from Supercheap. The Supercheap stuff it better quality but for the about the same price.

    That said, I just bought a lot of stuff (an overkill) from the sites below.
    It should arrive in a few days and I will evaluate the install.

    1. I decided to attack the heat at source, i.e. the pipe. I ordered 2 of these
    Exhaust Heat Sheild
    2. I also ordered this to go under the tunnel, i.e. to stop the heat from the transmission - Heat Barrier
    3. I also ordered something similar to the Repco/Supercheap option that I will suspend under the exbox (via some spacers),
    another barrier

    Probably an overkill.
    2015 Defender 110

  7. #7
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    I spent a little time to tonight lying under the Defender and contemplating the world and all things heat and exboxes. At the risk of stating the bleeding obvious, here are my thoughts.

    The problem as I see it is the shape of the transmission tunnel. It's basically a big square box at the end that traps all the heat from the transmission and exhaust. The back of this box is the back of the seat box which blocks any airflow in this area. The top of this box is where the exbox sits.

    Putting heat shield on the bottom of the exbox will help, but a lot of heat is being absorbed by the back of the seat box. This can then be conducted up to the exbox and because it is sealed it then acts as an oven.

    The first thing I need to do is wrap the exhaust between the flange and the muffler. I only wrapped up to the flange because I was only thinking about my feet (selfish, I know). Once it gets to the muffler it is behind the seat box so should be ok as its all out in the airstream.

    Not sure what to do next. The most effective solution would probably be self-adhesive heat shielding stuck to the underside of the transmission tunnel and seat box, so there's no dead airspace behind the shielding. This would be a very complicated job and I don't really like the idea of it sitting under there gathering mud. Maybe just a bit on the back of the seat box might help.

    Another option would be to shield the seatbox and transmission inside the cabin. This might work but the exbox would have to be insulated from the seatbox - ie no metal to metal contact. I've been eyeing off the Exmoor stuff - a lot of money, but if it does the job it would be worth it. They say the on their website it doesn't fit the 2.2 so need to find out about that.

    Anyway, some food for thought. I'll wrap the rest of the exhaust up to the muffler on the weekend and see how that goes. I also need to get a more comfortable driveway. I can see I'll be lying on it a lot now.

    Cheers,
    Jon

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by karlz View Post
    I looked at the stuff from Repco, and also from Supercheap. The Supercheap stuff it better quality but for the about the same price.

    That said, I just bought a lot of stuff (an overkill) from the sites below.
    It should arrive in a few days and I will evaluate the install.

    1. I decided to attack the heat at source, i.e. the pipe. I ordered 2 of these
    Exhaust Heat Sheild
    2. I also ordered this to go under the tunnel, i.e. to stop the heat from the transmission - Heat Barrier
    3. I also ordered something similar to the Repco/Supercheap option that I will suspend under the exbox (via some spacers),
    another barrier

    Probably an overkill.
    Be very interested to see how you go with the thermo-tec stuff. If you can get it on properly it should solve your problem.

  9. #9
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    Jon having recently picked up a tdci 130 but not having taken delivery.
    Is there sufficient clearance between gearbag tcase and floor pan to install a thin sheet of alloy shaped to the gearbox with air gap from the floor pan?

    That combined with heat shielding on topside of floor pan may help?

    Steve
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  10. #10
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    There's plenty of room, but there's also a lot wiring and stuff which will complicate it.

    It is an idea I have considered but I'm not convinced it will help much. Because it is a dead airspace the air behind it will eventually heat up as well.

    The primary source of radiant heat under there is the exhaust, which I think is worth shielding. Beyond that I think there's just a lot of general hotness coming from the engine, gearbox and transfer case (so all the way down the tunnel) which would be hard to shield against directly.

    Cheers,
    Jon

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