Thread: Fitting the Traxide Lighting Upgrade and Driving Light Kit to a 2007+

Yes and Yes

Cost $12 plus Postage $12 a couple of months ago.

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Forgot to ask two other things...

1. Where did you fit the Traxide relay(s)?
2. Did the headlight bulbs end up being H4's?

I'll take some photos tomorrow but in the mean time:

Front driver's side guard is easy to get to with the false intake removed. Plenty of room to work with drill access to the guard liner from the underside of the wheel arch

The sound deadening insulation was sacrificed to reveal the plastic guard liner. I mounted the 2 relays with 3 x 25mm M10 bolts (the middle one shared between the two relays) and mudguard washers and spaced them off the guard with large rubber gromits.

I took a thick earth from the AC compressor to one of the relay mounting bolts and fixed the other earths to this.

Getting the switch wiring through the fire wall was an interesting
exercise involving poking a straightened coat hanger through the large grommit pointing to the center of the vehicle. and then feeling for it as it hit the console (much luck involved there and a two person job). Taped the figure 8 wire to the coat hanger and pulled it through the firewall.

The lamps are H4.

Originally Posted by one_iota

Getting the switch wiring through the fire wall was an interesting exercise involving poking a straightened coat hanger through the large grommit pointing to the center of the vehicle. and then feeling for it as it hit the console (much luck involved there and a two person job). Taped the figure 8 wire to the coat hanger and pulled it through the firewall.

Awww now you've gone and spoiled the surprise

Didn't expect it to be easy


Pic's would be good, I suspected you would have fitted it under the blank, there's not many other spots.

Originally Posted by one_iota

Hi Paul,

I ran a 3 B&S cable (mighty thick) from the battery to close to the relays. The run is about 3.5 m (not as the crow flies) 4 B&S probably would have done the job. Overkill but that was what was available with the appropriate lug connectors.

The alternator on the Puma motor is buried low on the drivers side and even harder to get to than the starter on the otherside.

Hmmm, bad news about alternator accessibility. Why is it that every time they upgrade a vehicle, it becomes harder to work on? Anyway, with 3 BS cable you should be right as rain.

Cheers,

Paul

Originally Posted by Wilbur

Hi all,

Sorry to chip in late in the day.

I think it would be better to connect the relays to the output of the alternator instead of the battery. It is closer, so a shorter run is needed, but most importantly when the engine is running, the alternator powers the lights, not the battery. If you connect the relays to the battery, you get the loss in the wire from the alternator to the battery, and then from the battery to the relays.

Hope this is not too late to help,

Cheers,

Paul

Paul ; i s'pose in that situation there has to be a way to switch between output of the alternator and batteries because if you're alternator dies whilst you're driving at night but there will be times where you would want to run your lights whilst engine is shut off.

Originally Posted by Disco_owner

Paul ; i s'pose in that situation there has to be a way to switch between output of the alternator and batteries because if you're alternator dies whilst you're driving at night but there will be times where you would want to run your lights whilst engine is shut off.

No, it is all automatic. If the engine is not running (or the alternator fails), the lights draw power from the battery.

When the alternator starts up, it first powers all the electrics of the vehicle, and then whatever is left of the alternator output is used to charge the battery.

Originally Posted by dm_td5

Awww now you've gone and spoiled the surprise

Didn't expect it to be easy


Pic's would be good, I suspected you would have fitted it under the blank, there's not many other spots.

So some photos:

The relays in situ:

Note three bolts for the two relays with the earth connections on the centre bolt.



The relays and the earth connection to the AC Compressor shroud bolt. The 3 B&S cable is just above the relays connected via an additional circuit breaker to the short 8 B&S cable to the relays



The figure 8 switch wire (the black and white wire) going through the fire wall:



The reconfigured console switch arrangement:

All the rear window controls are now on the left and on the rhs the rear fog left and new driving light switch to the right closest to the steering wheel.



I still have some cable management to do.

a thread revival!

I'm planning on putting a Traxide Lighting Upgrade and Driving Light Kit into a TD5 Defender, and using the same switch above.

The YUG000540LNF switch has five pins; my friend google has identified them as being:

1 = earth switched
2 = +ve illumination (on with sidelights)
3 = earth
4 = redundant earth (matches pin 3)
5 = +ve control light (small orange led, feed from powered device)

Equally helpful on that site is a wiring diagram that shows the switch operation ...

http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/i...opic=374616.20

Has anyone reconciled the traxide driving light wiring with this switch, so that you get a green LED for dash illumination and an orange LED when the DL are on?

Cheers