My rear no longer clunks!

PaulMac · #1 (**permalink**) 6th January 2010, 10:23 PM

Yes the title says it all, replaced the "A" frame ball joint over two painfully long afternoons. In a car park no less, also not exactly having the right tools for the job.
After purchasing the defer about a month ago and having known about the clunk (which felt like it had about as much lash as a southern American road gang) it is finally cured.
Painful job, but the sweet sound of nothingness between gear changes makes it all worth it!

Pic's attached, old versus new. 50-60 dollar mark from British offroad

dmdigital · #2 (**permalink**) 7th January 2010, 06:00 AM

You were lucky you got it out so easily Paul!

It pays to check the bushes on the A-frame for wear as well.

gmeddy · #3 (**permalink**) 17th March 2010, 10:01 AM

i just did mine too, it was not fun, i sheered one of the little bolts that holds the ball joint into the mount. I thought i'd be able to do it all without removing the mount from the A frame, because my mate said he'd done the job and it was easy. He didn't mention that I'd need a Hydraulic Bearing Press to get the new one into the housing - maybe when he did his for some reason he didn't need one...?
luckily i have access to one at my workplace.
I was able to get the whole job done in one afternoon.

still got a bit of a clunk when taking up drive tho if i dont baby the clutch a heap.
- maybe the A Frame Bushes??

LRO53 · #4 (**permalink**) 17th March 2010, 10:30 AM

For $50-60 was it genuine?

ANR1799 REAR SUSPENSION BALL JOINT | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

$50-60 sounds right for Genuine if it is. See how much the aftermarket ones are!! £8.99

dullbird · #5 (**permalink**) 17th March 2010, 12:13 PM

I paid $50 for an A frame ball joint for my disco and it is not genuine, although I specifically bought the one I did because I wanted a greasable one

Xtreme · #6 (**permalink**) 17th March 2010, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmeddy

i just did mine too, it was not fun, i sheered one of the little bolts that holds the ball joint into the mount. I thought i'd be able to do it all without removing the mount from the A frame, because my mate said he'd done the job and it was easy. He didn't mention that I'd need a Hydraulic Bearing Press to get the new one into the housing - maybe when he did his for some reason he didn't need one...?
luckily i have access to one at my workplace.
I was able to get the whole job done in one afternoon.

still got a bit of a clunk when taking up drive tho if i dont baby the clutch a heap.
- maybe the A Frame Bushes??

Would be advisable to also check for wear between the rear axle splines and the hub drive members. If you have greased wheel bearings then the splines/drive members are prone to wear - better to convert to oil fed wheel bearings.

Dave_S · #7 (**permalink**) 17th March 2010, 09:48 PM

I just did mine - painful even with a press. Looks like I paid too much for the part too. The first one I did stretched over 4 days and I broke/bent 4 spanners

PaulMac · #8 (**permalink**) 18th March 2010, 09:39 PM

Feel your pain Dave, I did the bulk of mine over to afternoons after work. But that was in Gove NT heat. I think I lost about 2kg of water in sweat each time.

LRO53 · #9 (**permalink**) 19th March 2010, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Xtreme

Would be advisable to also check for wear between the rear axle splines and the hub drive members. If you have greased wheel bearings then the splines/drive members are prone to wear - better to convert to oil fed wheel bearings.

I'm interested in these oil feed rear wheel bearings where do you get them from? Is there a kit?

kaa45 · #10 (**permalink**) 19th March 2010, 03:48 AM

Just leave out the extra oil seal....

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