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Backpacking, and Walk in Camping The art of comfortable backpacking and walk in camping.

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Old 16th April 2008, 12:56 AM
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Carnarvon Gorge-Easter

Over the Easter weekend we went on a recon mission to Carnarvon Gorge to see what it was all about. I had heard it was good and to allow 3-4 days to see it properly. Bollocks, going back in Sep and staying a week. What a place.

Earlier in the year I decided to take the family and what a roller-coaster ride we had just to get there. From November the heavens opened up and the place was in a constant state of cyclic flooding right up to the point we left. The road was only officially opened in the week before Easter. Constant liasing with the super helpful Rangers assured us all would be well.

The hiking gear was topped up and renewed as needed(I had to import our new hiking tent inner from the states just days before we left-Thank-you UPS). We packed up the Fender with all our gear and managed to get to bed by 0030 on Good Friday Morning.(gotta love working hospitality). Thanks to M.R. Automotive for all the constant pestering and last minute servicing before the trip.

0300 Friday the alarm breaks the silence, wake every-one up and put the last items in the cabin fridge, final checks and on the road by 0330. Down the hill, over the tracks, onto the port road and away we go, next stop Dalby for breakfast. Good smooth run up to Toowoomba, kept on the good side of the law by the truckies. Over the top and around Oakey the fog closed in, nice and thick. Welcome Mr sun and roll into Dalby for that great Maccas road trip breaky. Pity the guy on the KTM, he looked cold(I remember those days). Rollin on down the highway past Chinchilla, Miles and on into Roma. Breathtested coming into Roma, yep smells like coffee. Coppers give good advice about the cheapest fuel so it's thanks and on our way to the BP. Topped up the tank and headed up to Injune and another hour on to the park turn-off. The countryside looked pretty green with all the recent rain. The road into the park had been freshly graded so was free from corros and holes but was all cricket ball sized marbles. Love my Michies. A couple of small causeways with some fast flowing water, past the private facilities, Takaraaka and the Lodge, the Eastern walks and into the park to check in with the rangers. Time about 1130. The plan was to camp the first night in the Nat park camp ground then walk in to Big Bend and stay for 2 nights. We get our campsite, set up camp and have some lunch before going out to explore.

For the afternoon we head down to Baloon Cave and check out some of the aboriginal art. On the way back out the kids spot a tiny tutrle no bigger then my watch. Next on the agenda is Micky's creek. When about to start the walk a car comes over the hill and I noticed the had a flat so flagged them down. They were grateful and we headed off on our walk. What a place. We didn't go all the way up to Mickey's Gorge as my wife isn't that keen on rock hopping but I did make her hop up too Warambah Gorge for some fantastic scenery. Saw some Irish tourists come up and the girl with them had lovely strappy dress shoes, how appropriate, NOT.(gotta love Borat). Then it was back to camp for dinner, put the kids to bed and prep for the walk tomorrow.

Up early, make breaky, break camp, final pack (HEAVY) and park the car. Check in with the rangers, fill in Remote walking form and off we go.

Over the first crossing and can still see the day use area and my 6 year old wants to rest already. They can normally do 10-12 ks but this time they had to carry something useful and my 8 year old was not impressed. Somehow our daughter managed to pack in teddy and the Easter Bunny. At this stage the crossings are easy but my wife still doesn't like them with a heavy pack, little does she know what is to come.

The park had alot of flood damage and after the ampitheature which was closed due to damage the crossings were all washed away as well as the totems.

Morning tea was decided to be had at the moss garden. Stupid idea. Magic place but carrying around a 35kg pack up there was not the best of ideas.


Then it was on again and the next side trip Wards Canyon Awesome.


We then travelled up to the art gallery but left that side trip for the return journey. The creek crossings disapeared and the going got tough. Too tough for some. I ended up walking my pack up to Boowinda Gorge and returning to take my wifes and shuffle the packs up. We walked into Big Bend 6 hours after we set off and set up our camp.


We met some great couples and Lily and Jasper kept them entertained while we were camped there.

The next day we just hung around spotting turtles and watching the birds fly in and out of the cliffs and skim the water having a drink.


We walked to Boowinda Gorge and Boowinda Cave for some more rock art. Spent another night and a new couple of campers. On the first night at Big Bend it poured rain from 0030 on to 0600 and we thought it was coming back again the second but shower only lasted 5 minutes the nothing after that.

On the Monday we packed up and walked out in 4 hours and spent another half hour getting a special talk at the art gallery by 2 indiginous rangers. We were the only ones there at that time.
The kids did really well and my wife is a super champion. She got blisters on the first day, endured wobbley crossings, carried a huge weight and even stacked it twice, but somehow still loves me after dragging her out to the middle of nowhere.

We set off home about 1300 on Monday and made the return journey back to Fort Coleman and arrived home around 2130 without incident. The Fender went super, and proved its worth on yet another long trip. Can't wait to return and see the bits we missed and revisit the ones we didn't. Who knows some of you could be there too.

The Colonol.
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Old 16th April 2008, 07:15 AM
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good read

must get there one day.....cannot believe i grew up in central queensland and never went out there
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Old 16th April 2008, 07:24 AM
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Great trip report.

The boys and I went up there last year. Thought Ward's canyon was the pick of the spots on a hot, fly-blown day.

Cheers.
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Old 16th April 2008, 08:27 AM
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Good stuff. Is on our to do list as well. There just never seems to be enough time to go everywhere we want.
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Old 10th May 2010, 07:43 PM
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We thoroughly agree. It is a fantastic trip and you need at least a week to explore it all. We did big bend in a day and wish we had camped overnight.

Also planning on going back and doing battleship spur. Now that's peace and quiet hey!

Tramp On!
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