what Air flow meter
Hi Guys. I am trying to get my 88 highline rangie going on petrol. currently runs only on LPG and great to. Apparently it has not run on petrol for about 10 years so i understand i may need to replace a few things.
First, what type of Air flow meter do i need. A fllapper type or the later type. currently doesn't have one and diddn't when i got the car.
The car runs awsome on gas but i want the extra range of the petrol tank. I have replaced the fuel pump flushed all fuel lines and new filter. I have got good preasure on the fuel rail. and ignition system is exellent.
I am just going through a process of elemination to get it going.
I have purchased a air flow meter and it is the later type one. I fitted it and it did not start. Do i need a flapper type one for this engine and efi system? I am yet to pull the injectors out and check them, i suspect them to be stuffed after that long sitting.
Also if the ECU was stuffed and the air flow meter was faulty or wrong will the car start and run a bit.
I have checked all fuel temp sensors and other sensors in the efi system and they seem to be fine.
Dont know if the ECU is working.
I guess what i would like to know is, is there any tricks to just getting the car running on petrol without a air flow meter and ECU, such as bypasing or short out something?
If it is a 3.5 you will need a flapper style afm with your ECU as well as a backfire protector valve in the air intake if you want the gas to run as well. Otherwise the afm will be damaged beyond repair with the first backfire.
All the injectors will be stuffed. It takes about 12 months only of gas-only driving to ruin the injectors. Find a set off a wrecked engine or source a set from the UK. I found a set for my big brother's '86 off a similar aged Rover 3500 saloon.
If you want to run the engine without the flapper afm you will need an aftermarket ECU such as Haltech but don't expect it to be cheap.
my 1990 RR 3.9 had a gas-only conversion when I bought it, I reinstalled a petrol tank (3 actually), the injector O-rings had all dried up and leaked a gallon of petrol over the motor when I first tested the fuel pump. All the injectors had completely gummed up; I cleaned them all out (quite a job) and replaced the baskets in them, achieved good spray pattern on all of them and the motor now runs very well on both fuels.
And yes, you will need a flapper AFM. The car will not run on petrol without the electronics to control the injectors. You could build a megasquirt system if you are short of hobbies.
Hey, thanks for the advice. I orderd the Air flow meter from the uk after giving them all the details. and they supplied me with the later type one. very anoyed. so i will order the flapper one now. I learnt a trick today on how to check the pulse to each injector. you use a small 12 volt globe and pull the plug to each injector, fit the globe in the injector and it will light up when pulsed, do this to each injector. I will keep you guys posted when i get it going.
I have a full 3.5 injector system I have replaced with another for sale
it has been fixed and ready with ECU and the last plapper I could find in Aus PM ir you are interested
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willvine (5th October 2011)
Up date to getting it running on petrol
OK guys, I have had some time to pull things apart. I did actually get a refirbished ECU and Flapper AFM so now it is the injectors that need some attention. I have pulled the fuel rail and injectors out and tested them and they click when energised and they all read 2.4 ohms so i guess they just need a clean out as they have alot of carbon build up. Can i just get them serviced at a EFI mechanic??? and how much should i pay for each injector to be serviced, as i see i can buy new/refirbished for about 80 bucks which times by 8 is pretty pricey. I also read someware that early ford EL injectors fit the same, can any body confirm this.
Flapper style injectors are also fitted to VL commodores and skylines of the same era (mid 80's). EL Falcon is 10 years later and not compatible with flappers.
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willvine (5th October 2011)
Another option for you guys is to convert to Ford EECIV control.
They are plentiful, low cost and far superior to the Lucas stuff and there are many options for recalibration. The Mass Air systems are sequential and have stereo HEGO's. So, apart from the increased reliability of the system and better fuel control you also pickup much needed ignition control which also goes a long way to improve both performance and fuel economy.
In fact the hardest part of the conversion would be the adaptation of the Ford TFI-IV distributor, something I embarked upon but gave up on because the engine stuffed up so have since commenced a 351 conversion.
Of course you could also adapt direct ignition, in which case(if sticking with the 5.0L EECIV) you'd only need to adapt the 8 tooth encoder wheel and pickup into the distributor.
You can in actual fact get any V8 running surprisingly well without any electronic programming if you use the right bits. I used a 5.0L EECIV, 70mm MAF and 30lb injectors on my 351 cleveland for many several years with great results.
These days I use a Moates quarter horse which allows real time programming and data logging at 2000 frames/second and it's only $250!
Last edited by FIXR7; 8th October 2011 at 06:59 PM. Reason: added some stuff
VL is hot wire.this is a good old system but not suited to rover V8.
prob modify a nissan V8 version set up if you could fnd one---cheeper to use aftermarket.
R31 pintara/R30 skyline is flapper-the issue here is that the fuel mixture is based on RPM-up to 4000 it looks at water temp and O2 these could be reprogrammed but im told you have troubles with the injector drivers..
VK holden eng, early 4.1 ford engine is fuel only boschits reprogrammed by swaping resisterslike you do jets inside the casing---not worth playing with.
GM delco-early in the ECU reprogramming the VN/pulsar ecu was king.
im told you can get free programs etc etc.I have axcess to Kalmaker when they first started, i think you have to pay to get the ecu retuned now by them plenty of P76 and older holden got these fitted.i also assuming to od SD1.my mates fitted lots of these to cars like diahatsu charade.
the VS manual ecu has more computing power and live data programming-in line with what you get with a nissan system.these will run distributor or coils or sequential depending on what distributor imputs you choose.
i looked at the premade KIT ecu in the UK for my hiline.It had a flapper issue and to use the plug in i have to buy another AFM.
I upgraded to a disco 1 and this system is GM-5 liter in style requiring[GM-BOSCH] injectors and GM style Throttle body.
ive seen plug in ecu for the disco im assuming to swap the wiring from a wreck would be the cheepest way.
I have a fordEA-AU reprogrammer
stuff but its beond me at this time with not that much that you can play with to convert it to suit a fuel only rover V8.
I bought an early link system into australia in the late 80's.i bought this and they made to order in christchurch-i found them at a car show selling boat engines.the deal was they give me the odd free unit with bulk orders to be an australian agent-it was cheep at the time but its still in the box
too easy at the time to jet a SU or HOLLEY.i bought an AFM interceptthat works great on thehot wire AFM but most new cars adapt and cancel it out.
the hand control has had a flogging with loads of reprogramming on late model subaru etc but it died this year..
its might be me but the jaycar kits look the same as what i got.
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