Yes, Bilstein have a listing for EAS. I believe the compression damping at least is different to coils, possibly opening length too?
JC
Does anyone like Koni/Bilstein make aftermarket EAS dampers?
What is the fundamental valving difference between those and coil spring dampers?
I presume there are many who have converted to coils without swapping the dampers over. How did it go?
Yes, Bilstein have a listing for EAS. I believe the compression damping at least is different to coils, possibly opening length too?
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
From a discussion on here a couple of years ago, I believe the EAS dampers are softer on compression than on extension. I don't recall whether there are any differences in mountings or lengths but would make sure of this if purchasing as they are mounted in a different position.
How do P38 dampers measure-up?
Best I can find they are eyelet top end. But I have a spare set of EAS front shock towers I could modify. Probably easier than modifying the shocks.
I've never had Koni or Bilstein coil shocks, but I've had both eas ones.
The Koni shocks are far better valved!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !
The Bilsteins are more firmly valved over all frequencies, and especially low frequencies - even slow long bumps they won't loosen up. They feel 'sporty', but that's about it - they're just plain uncomfortable.
The Konis are more progressively valved. At low frequencies they open right up, but if you hit a few ruts, or swerve at hwy speeds they'll tighten up straight away.
EAS shocks are firmer on the rebound. This is because even though the bottom piston diameteres in towards the bottom, they are still a rising rate spring, whereas most of the springs on the Classics were constant rate.
The P38 shocks are 510 extension at the front (not sure on compression), and i'm pretty sure the rear P38's are shorter than the Classic ones.
Thanks Benji. Were both your shocks on P38 or classic? Application wise they can't be too much different. Both similar air-springs and similar weight. It's mainly fitment I'd need to deal with.
Shorter is easier to deal with than longer, it may even give me room to run a pin-eye converter on the front.
Right now the rear shocks on my 93 are pretty floaty and long term I want something better up front too.
I have found some RRC EAS part numbers.
Front
84-1186 Koni USA are selling them for $US273 per pair.
8240-1206SPX Koni Heavy Track SPX Performance Shock Absorbers 8240-1206SPX - SummitRacing.com
Rear
84-1187
8240-1207SPX Koni Heavy Track SPX Performance Shock Absorbers 8240-1207SPX - SummitRacing.com
If you go in through their search, Koni has the 8240's here: Koni North America - ITT
SPX are twin tube, the 84's are too. I see on the 2010 catalogue that the 84 series has a "will be discontinued when stock is depleted" note. So the SPX's are the current models.
Bilstein EAS shocks are about 30mm longer(extended) than coil ones; not only the stroke but also the length of spigot, where the rubbers go.
Koni's aren't as long- closer to the original Boge.
I've a set of both and on my LSE ( with all the extras weighs in at 2500kg), I find the Bilsteins more comfortable BUT really a bit too soft on the rear.
I found the Koni's on lowest setting are still a bit "stiff" and seem to transmit every bump and ripple in the road.
Trouble is I now also have an L322 and , well, its just so smooth in comparison, so I'm very picky with the LSE.
Great info Don, thanks. I'm trying not to bring a L322 comparison into this, could get expensive.
Do you know if you have the 84 or the 8240 shocks? Early or later versions?
I've always found the P38's to be a harsh ride, my 93 is the first EAS classic I've been in and yes it's harsher on compression than I'd like at road height with the stock dampers. I have a 4BD1T which will help bully the koni compression damping into submission, but I think there is still a significant effect from the air-bag volume being quite small at ride height and spring-rates being quite firm.
I have another idea floating round to add volume to reduce the spring rate and improve bump response. I don't know how well it would work, but it would involve plumbing one of these in as close as practical to the air-bag on each corner.
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Great minds think alike.... I've been considering the same thing on my softdash/Classic.... - The steel-sprung Classic I used to drive was softer on bumps than mine is.- Like the car-park traffic-slowing lumps...
Naturally, to 'gild the lilly' a bit, a solonoid (100% duty-cycle) that could add/remove them from the 'circuit' to give 1960's Yank Tank float around town, and sensible when at speed.
Then I thought of using a double-acting air-ram instead, bag to one side, and the other plumbed via a Fill/Exhaust valve to secondary air-tank - compressor setup.
For off-road lumpy bits, the increased softness would be usefull in axle travel.... and in an "OOPS" moment when you want an instant few inches lift... hit the FILL button to pressurise the 'tank' side of the ram, driving the air out of the other and into the bag. - Would (?) happen too fast for the EAS computer to compensate.
Then activate the EXHAUST side to let the piston move back and reduce the height to what it was.
Then it got too difficult, as I thought the extra volume would probably overload the already marginal air pump, and make UPward height changes that much slower...![]()
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