My 89 3.5 Rangie has developed an intermittent miss or loss of power according to my wife as is a daily driver for her ATM. I replied it never did have any power
I tested everything I could think of and has been well serviced anyway.
So there was only one thing I could do as I don't have much spare time nowHold it in every gear till just before lifters pump up. I did this for over 20 mins and it did not miss a beat.
Also ran it hard up a long hill.
Wish I could post vids
I have a feeling something is putting out a warning. I suspect ignition. Coil or module?
Any thoughts? I hate intermittent problems as can be hard to find
Tony
ChatterBox
Have you changed the alternator recently - this was the cause of a miss in mine although mine is a 3.9, short losses of power - well I'm also trying to find one of these - having it checked again tommorrow - possibly the fuel pump not providing enough pressure
Bad earth??
98 Harvey the tractor - 300 tdi Defender Wagon
84 Alfetta GTV
Sure someones not winding you up in lue of a certain beamer
The modules can be a pain tho ... You could recheck / reset the baseline resistance on the MAF & TPS
Mike
Did change alternator a wile back but all seemed well. Have done some big trips since.Originally Posted by GuyG
Bad earth etc. You may be close there I think. I have noticed a voltage drop when heater wipers etc are run. Maybe that horrible terminal on the bulkhead causing voltage leakage? I just hope it doesn't stop on my wife
I don't think its fuel with mine as can sustain revs under load for a long time.
All takes time
If it doesn't behave its self the Blower and 14cux will end up on it
Tony
I actually have wondered about the beamer thingSure someones not winding you up in lue of a certain beamer
The modules can be a pain tho ... You could recheck / reset the baseline resistance on the MAF & TPS
MikeI did tell her it would be more gutless than the 3.5 and has no room.
Haven't done MAF or TPS yet. I have noticed on over run lets out a fuel pop through exhaust. Over fuel or erratic spark? Dizzy cap?
Something else to do over Easter
Tony
And you held a straight face when you said that?
I did mine and it runs real sweet, Best it's ever been ... No more erratic idle problems & happier through the revs / more guts
Coil on it's way out??
Sloppy cam chain??
Excess fuel from dirty / lousy injectors? ... Run a tank of injector cleaner on a 2 day trip ... Could also check the Vacuum advance unit doesn't have a broken diaphragm
But setting the base line of the MAF & TPS might solve that also ... that EFI motor temp sensor is easy to measure .... Keeping in mind that you were flogging it
BUT that + pole on the firewall would be the first port of call
... Now you have a good Easter break ...
Mike
On the alternator topic..... It could be making noise and upsetting engine management right? I've seen a thread here before on this topic. I'll have a search or does any one have the link?
Thanks Tony
PhillpA has spoken many times on this subject .... I think the theory applies to Bosch Alternators ...
The rev range is right for the problem you describe ... and the solution was to put a earthed shield cover over the wire loom (Wires to Dizzy) going past the alternator .... or reroute the wire loom away, at the back of the motor
Why not give him a PM
Found one of them.... I have copy pasted it.
Quote from PhilipA
IMHO the easiest is a Bosch 85 amp from a Magna TE?ie the one around 1990. They cost about $200 or so new.
The brackets are in a similar position but you have to do a number of mods.
1 make up an extender for the adjuster, about 3 inches long.
2 if you want to use the normal belt, grind a notch in the mounting bracket about 1/2 inch deep to allow the alternator to swing in far enough.
3 Some of the alternators have multi rib pulleys so you have to find the smallest V pulley available, then muck round with it to align the pulley with the PS pulley. The Lucas pulley is juuust too big and is a sloppy fit, but remember the tacho depends on a pulley the same size as the Lucas to be accurate. AFAIK, none are available for Bosch as small . Mine is 67mm vs 63mm AFAIR.
4 You have to organise a field wire for the tacho. I bought mine from an auto electrician who wired it for $40.
5 If you are a purist like me drill out the holes in the mounting bracket to suit the larger holes in the alternator and use bigger bolts. I used the smaller holes for several years but found the alternator was slightly "jacking" to a slight angle vs the belt.
6 The alternators have an injector plug on top for the exciter so you have to wire the small wire for the light into it.
7 The Bosch is a battery sensed alternator so you have to run a wire directly to the battery from the injector plug.
8 You should reroute the wires from the distributor to the coil well away from the alternator as there is a known problem that Bosch cause a lot of "hash" that can cause the ignition to malfunction.
It sounds a lot but it is all pretty simple. The Boschs are reliable as far as bearings etc but the regulators are a bit sus. Mine died in Kakadu but the bottom line is the parts are easy to get. I was able to drive to Darwin on my other alternator and buy one ( Sorry Mate no Magna , but what about a Commodore? Yep Exactly the same ) at Repco for $52.
The Mechanic at Jabiru had 6 alternators but no regulators! but it would have only been a couple of days wait for one, vs who knows how long to fix a Lucas.
Regards Philip A
Unquote......
I have a pommy tractor alternator so is plausible to be a cause.
Tony
Posting Permissions
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks