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Thread: What did you do on your Perentie Today.

  1. #831
    Bearman's Avatar
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    Made this up to ensure the rear axle driveshaft on the 6X6 never flies to bits again if/when the centre carrier bearing disintegrates. The bearing is a pillow type and encased in rubber and a flimsy tin housing which bolts to the chassis crossmember. When the bearing seizes it melts the rubber and then the driveshafts flogging around until it breaks the tin casing and then it wobbles big time and destroys itself and anything else in the area. This will ensure it never comes loose even when the bearing seizes. I would advise anyone who has a 6by to check this bearing regularly especially if you have any vibrations in the drivetrain and replace it if necessary. You can separate the bearing from the pillow block and replace it. The bearing number is 88507. Would be worth buying one and keeping it for a spare.
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    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  2. #832
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    Here's a pic of what the bearing looks like. You can see how flimsy the tin casing is. That didn't work, I'll try again.

    Hopefully I have it this time.
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    Last edited by Lotz-A-Landies; 9th September 2015 at 12:43 PM.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  3. #833
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    Nicew work Brian.
    Are you ready for production? I can feel the stampede coming north to your door
    Cheers, BDave.
    Replace "You are...!", with "Are you...?"

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  4. #834
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    And a shot of it installed. It won't get out of that!!!!!
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    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  5. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    My guy told me that the Land Rover nuts have a 45 degree taper and the Dynamic ones are 60 degree, or the other way round, I forget.
    Or he could have just said that to get me to buy $60 worth of nuts......

    can anyone chime in with what angle the Landrover taper is?
    Might be worth ringing Dynamic directly and finding out from them what taper is required.

    <edit> the nut used by my supplier (supposedly a Dynamic nut) and Land Rover nut have a different taper (60 degree vs 45 degree). I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic asking them to confirm what angle is correct for the rim.

    EDIT: Heard back from Dynamic. 60 degree taper on the wheel nut is required to secure Dynamic steel rims properly. 45 degree Landie nuts will hold them (sort of) but will not be 100% secure and will damage the rim.

    edit, this site does not like the degree symbol and kept putting a ? instead

  6. #836
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    I picked up the galvanising I dropped off last week. This is the first run I've done in QLD and I was impressed by the standard of work.


  7. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dervish View Post
    I picked up the galvanising I dropped off last week. This is the first run I've done in QLD and I was impressed by the standard of work.

    Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  8. #838
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    You tell him that afterwards!

    Hey, did the firewall warp at all?

    Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

  9. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearman View Post
    Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.
    I?ll put them through next batch, I didn?t think they were so unreliable. I have a list I?m very slowly working through and they are on it. I expect trying to work up the intestinal fortitude to deskin the doors and galvanise the frames is a way off yet though.

    Quote Originally Posted by BadCo. View Post
    You tell him that afterwards!

    Hey, did the firewall warp at all?
    It did, where they all do; it got a bit wavy across where the main wiring loom grommet goes and the tops of the footwells. These are also conveniently the places that can?t be seen once installed. Thankfully this bulkhead already had the 'Army fix' on the bottoms of the footwells - the troublesome double skinned part cut out and replaced with 2mm sheet. Gotta love that.

    For the record, it was not braced at all as I?d read that the mobs that sell gal bulkheads in the UK don't brace them. The only thing I did was leave an instruction that it shouldn?t be quenched, which I have no way of knowing whether they followed or not. The measurement across the chassis mount holes is unchanged, and it sits level.

  10. #840
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    So in other words it warped where you can't see it and it doesn't affect the function of it. Good to know.

    What do you mean by quench?

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