Thread: Maxidrive switch wiring?

Vlad,
I cant help directly with the switch as I have set mine up myself to electrically switch a couple of pneumatic valves (replacing the original manual push pull units).
However, the lock light is activated by the movement of the locking cylinder, providing the earth. It is not connected via any switch. my light has positive connected off acc circuit, and negative from the connector on the diff.
Without some movement in the axle (rotation) you may not get any action, suggest you will need to jack one wheel and once switched, you may need to rotate wheel a little to get splines to connect etc...
... hope all this makes sense.

Originally Posted by rrturboD

Vlad,
I cant help directly with the switch as I have set mine up myself to electrically switch a couple of pneumatic valves (replacing the original manual push pull units).

Can you expand on this please? I would love to get rid of my old push/pull unit...

Got two Mac Valve (45A-AC1-DDBA-1BA I think) 12v solenoid valves, and positioned these up under brake booster. Got valves from Fred Smith automotive, 03 9720 4999.
Placed two push pull (hella I think) electric switches on console, so pull on activated solenoid and push moved to off position. When diff is locked the warning light glows.... usually there are a few seconds and metres traveled/wheels turning etc before light indicates lock. Similar when you de activate.
Remember you are applying vacuum to move the diff lock piston to engage and again to the disengage position, it is not spring loaded.

Yeah I need to ascertain which wire is supposed to go to which plug in this situation. If I pull the switch (to activate it) the light doesn't come on even when I drive so I ASSUME the diff isn't locking.... which I ASSUME is probably due to these wires being hooked up wrongly?

Is it a Carling switch?



If so, try: [ame]https://www.carlingtech.com/sites/default/files/documents/Carling-Wire-Diagrams.pdf[/ame]

or

The indicator light is entirely separate to the switch in my installation. Like mine, I assume your switch is operating a pneumatic valve.
Firstly i'd be finding the lamp return wire on the diff and using that to indicate diff activation. (it goes to earth when diff activated)
Your switch will only need to be switching the positive feed to the pneumatic valve. Any movement in the valve (clicking) when switch activated?
Use a multimeter to check the wires coming in to the switch and see which is +ve. and how the switch operates.

Ron it's a pull (on) push (off) switch.

Originally Posted by rrturboD

The indicator light is entirely separate to the switch in my installation. Like mine, I assume your switch is operating a pneumatic valve.

Well it's not like the old maxidrive ones where there was a vacuum line and valve as part of the switch. It's just an electric switch which I assume must control a valve down on/in the difflock itself.

Originally Posted by rrturboD

Firstly i'd be finding the lamp return wire on the diff and using that to indicate diff activation. (it goes to earth when diff activated)
Your switch will only need to be switching the positive feed to the pneumatic valve. Any movement in the valve (clicking) when switch activated?
Use a multimeter to check the wires coming in to the switch and see which is +ve. and how the switch operates.

Thanks.

Well, this is embarrassing.

I originally posted this thread two years ago and haven't done anything about it yet.

In summary -

I have a rear MD locker and the wires have come off the back of the switch.

I have no idea what wires go where and the switch terminals are not labelled either.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram / can tell me how this is supposed to wire up?

I have been really slack and haven't even been 4wding in "ages", let alone needed to use the locker.

But I need to sort it now, BEFORE I may need it !

(Note - this is the 3-pin 12V switch, not the earlier vaccuum valve type switch)


Any additional advice etc much appreciated.