Thread: GOE Compressor Guard

It goes over the top of everything. You don't remove the plastic cover.


Bob

The 'newer' compressor fitted under warranty on older D4s and standard on later models hangs quite a bit lower than the chassis rail. Doesn't the addition of this guard (over the plastic cover) now increase the potential for a hang point?


Never seen a compressor guard in the flesh, so I'm just asking.


Cheers,


Kev.

Makes no difference to clearance worth worrying about with the guard on. If it wasn't so late, I would add a pic of ours.

Better to "hang" on a 6mm aluminium plate than on the thin plastic, although I have never been hung up on it. It is pretty close to the rear wheel so is not usually a serious low point.


The only thing that has happened to mine is that it is stone blasted, particularly on the front edge, which looks like someone has been hammering it. But then again, so is all the plastic trim along the bottom and in front of the rear wheel arch, not to mention the Kaymar rear bar and exposed bits of the camper trailer, despite most of the trailer being protected by a Stone Stomper. I run D697 285 x 60 R18 tyres, which are significantly wider than the LR mud flaps, so after thousands of km of outback "roads" over the last couple of years everything exposed has been stoned.


Bob

The compressor guard obviously gives you a very small amount less clearance in that particular bit than without but as others have said its better to drop into the guard than the compressor.

The only hassle I've ever had was a large stick wedging on the inside of the guard between the guard and the compressor, took a bit of tugging to get it out.

I think the design could be improved by have an angled piece at the front from the bottom of the guard upwards so that it would prevent sticks etc but also so you could slide up and over rather than hitting a rock etc front on but the issue would be where to anchor it and also to make sure you got enough airflow to prevent overheating.

Andrew's mention of a stick reminded me that once I had some gravel stuck between the guard and the plastic. This caused a loud vibration noise when the compressor started up which was worrying at first but easily cured by washing the rubbish out of the gap.


Bob

Originally Posted by BobD

Better to "hang" on a 6mm aluminium plate than on the thin plastic, although I have never been hung up on it. It is pretty close to the rear wheel so is not usually a serious low point.


The only thing that has happened to mine is that it is stone blasted, particularly on the front edge, which looks like someone has been hammering it. But then again, so is all the plastic trim along the bottom and in front of the rear wheel arch, not to mention the Kaymar rear bar and exposed bits of the camper trailer, despite most of the trailer being protected by a Stone Stomper. I run D697 285 x 60 R18 tyres, which are significantly wider than the LR mud flaps, so after thousands of km of outback "roads" over the last couple of years everything exposed has been stoned.


Bob

True, but if the guard is the reason you are getting 'Hung' ... which was the point of my question. However, you are right, the positioning of the compressor would generally prevent it hitting much anyway unless you are climbing up over edges, etc. I noticed on my old D4 that much of the scratching occurred on the chassis and reservoir well before the compressor.


If you do a lot of sand driving, over time a lot of the underside becomes free of paint .... requiring a bit of treatment to prevent surface rust.

Pics of the guard.
NAY_3171.jpg NAY_3172.jpg

As you can see, it is almost just the thickness of the alloy off the chassis rail. Does a good job, even if the front can act as a scoop on sand