Do you actually get all the old oil out with the pump method or is the old way of the sump plug better. I've never hand a car that would use a vacuum pump for oil removal. And is LR the only place you can get the sump plug from.
I purchase a hand Vacuum Pump use the vacuum system to change the oil (no fuss and no mess) so its not something that I need to worry about!
Do you actually get all the old oil out with the pump method or is the old way of the sump plug better. I've never hand a car that would use a vacuum pump for oil removal. And is LR the only place you can get the sump plug from.
According to that impeccable authority Google , it is because you may drop the old one and distort the thread and cut into the alloy sump, resulting after a few changes in a stripped sump which could be very expensive.
That is what the UK VW forum says anyway, this being tempered by a poster saying that every new plug he has bought from a VW dealer has been damaged anyway. Apparently you should closely examine your plug with a jewelers glass to check for imperfections before reusing.
What a load of bollocks IMHO. I use my old plug every time on my Honda with alloy sump as I don't over tighten it or drop it. Although knowing LR products now , you probably have to lift the body off to replace the sump. LOL.
Regards Philip A
Damo4runner,
I reckon you don't get 'all' the oil out but it certainly seems like it gets 'all but'! No getting underneath, no removal of sump protection no sump plug issues, easy as!
What brand pump did you get and where from if you don't mind me asking?
The gasket in the plug is a specialised o ring. It has a winged profile.
Ive reused them a few times on RRS and Puma (plugs are the same) without leaking
I was thinking about machining a substitute plug to take std o rings
Another thought was fumoto sump plug. Good on the RRS with underbody protection plate but is probably too exposed on the puma. You fit the fumoto once and then operate the locked valve
I haven't noticed the hose you mention. And now I realise I just commented on a really old post I found in the search function.
Last edited by Damo4runner; 24th May 2015 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Extra info
Yep the washers used commonly are crushable so very much one use only without risking a lot of grief next time you try to get the plug off.
I don't know about LR sump plugs but I've been told they can actually be magnetic to collect metallic fines... Who can say. I would totally believe BByer's theory too.
Now 2016 D4 HSE 'Leo' and Steve the Triumph Speed Twin
Then 2010 D4 3.0 HSE 'James'
Then 2010 RRS TDV8 'Roger' w traxide DBS, UHF, Cooper Zeons, Superchips remap
Then 2010 D4 TDV6 'Jumbo' w traxide DBS
First love 2002 D2 TD5 'Disco Stu'
Does anyone know the correct thread for the D3 sump plug, interested in the Fumoto option (sorry for the hijack)?
Regards, Will
Stornoway Grey '09 D3 TDV6 SE, 2015 TERRITORY Engine at 348k
LLAMS, FYRLYTS, OL D4 Bar
Safari Snorkel, D4 hitch, ARB CKMA12
This is a big subject
I never replaced a sump plug in my life
The biggest risk with the alloy sump is wrecking the sump and having to helicoil it.
I've done a few heliciol repairs, on motorbike sumps, alloy final drives , gearboxes etc. best not to go there.
Don't waste your money on a new sump plug, just use a torque wrench, whenever you see alloy think "torque wrench"
The type of gasket /washer etc is is important on alloy sumps , avoid copper washers unless you know they are soft and annealed, ( you can easily bend them between your thumb and index finger, you can anneal them on the gas or electric stove )
The sump plug should have a flange at least 2 mm wide , 3 or 4 mm is better.
Use a fiber washer or "doughty" washer ( a metal washer with rubber bonded to the inside of it , not easy to get and expensive so I avoid them)
My preference is a fiber washer, you can get them easily at repco, supercheap etc by the packet.etc.
This is my system, used on alloy engines, motorbikes, gearboxes etc. Clean you sump plug, put the washer on and get some thread tape, ( the thin one, white) Wrap it abound the bottom of the plug near the washer and over the washer, so the washer is sitting in position held by a couple of layers of thread tape. Or use a smear of "silicon Blue" around the washer
Fit the plug and torque, you will get a perfect leak free seal with the minimum of effort and torque & with minimum stress on the alloy sump threads. good luck simmo
simmo
95 300Tdi Defender wagon
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