Thread: Tips and tricks for purchasing a D3

I haven't done a lot of research on D3's but I'd say you'd should be able to pick up a great one with less K's with the money your looking at. There is a massive amount of very useful info in the FAQ's. The general rule is service history. It must be without question. Some years had particular foibles so I'd suggest narrowing down to a vehicle and then post that vehicle here. You'll get lots of good advice.

Also, depending on what you want it for, don't discount a V8 petrol. Comes with all options and works out cheaper in the long run according to those that have done the sums.

The biggest tip I can offer, do your research and be prepared to take your time to find the best buy. Start with the FAQ posts in the stickies section. If you have a good known D2, take your time. I test drove plenty of D3's before finding the right one and was often amazed at how good it was to get back into the D2 after a test drive.

Absolute must ensure criteria - at those km's if the Auto has not had a steel oil pan fitted and had its oil changed at least twice (or now due to its second change) then walk away or reduce the price by $7k and budget on a gearbox rebuild.

The other must ensure criteria - the timing belt is due for replacement at these km's on the TDV6. If it has been recently done and they can not prove that the oil pump housing was upgraded, also walk or reduce price by $2k and finish job properly if you want to avoid a catastrophic engine failure and being $15k out of pocket.

Probably also due for replacing front lower control arms a second time, so budget another $2k for this. At low speed will make knocking noise over bumps if due. Not a show stopper, just drop the price accordingly. Maybe even rear control arm bushes would be due by now.

In general more expensive to fix than a D2 and all the known problems can be very expensive if not sorted. If none of the above has been done, and you really like the car you find, then negotiate a lower price or keep looking for something with much less km's on it.

Be very wary of a seller who claims to know nothing of these problems above. A sure sign it won't have been serviced properly as even the dealers don't get it right when it comes to proper maintenance on the D3.

Otherwise great car - but do your homework and don't rush. The longer you look the cheaper they become. And remember - other than the badge, there is nothing common to what you know about your D2. Prepare to start all your learning from scratch.

As per what the other guys have said, here's a couple of recent threads where people have been researching similar vehicles:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ns-please.html

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...age-d3-d4.html

The oil pump housing can crack and then the belt tensioner is lost, usually occurs after belt change:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...t-failure.html

A change/upgrade to the suspension compressor is also a common issue for certain MY's

Plenty of threads covering these and other things.

Cheers,
Scott

Agree with all above and just add that if it still has the original EAS compressor you will likely be up for an upgrade on that at some point. Would also be good it it has had a new alternator recently but that one is hard to predict it seems.

Originally Posted by lpj

Also, depending on what you want it for, don't discount a V8 petrol. Comes with all options and works out cheaper in the long run according to those that have done the sums.

TerryO had a TDV6 and swapped to a V8 and in his experience though the v8 uses more fuel its way cheaper to service and is cheaper to own.

Im looking for a similar vehicle and originally wanted a diesel. Based on terrys advice and others im now leaning towards a petrol. Apart from outback fuel availability and range the petrol appears to be cheaper. The petrols are also generally $9k cheaper than the diesels. You can get a petrol for $25k with less than 100k km.

If you want a diesel and are willing to spend $35k id either wait a while or save a bit more and grab a D4 TDV6. They are low $40k now and are coming down every month. If you cant wait I'd try and get a bargain

Cheers

Dan

Thanks guys some sound advice here just the few things that I had no idea about. I see so many diesels advertised around the $30k mark and did call a few to check service history ect and guess what minimal history and none of them claimed to know about the issues except for one guy who mentioned he had factored this into his supposedly cheap price of $28k I told him the real figures and he laughed. Looks like some unsuspecting people out there really have bought some lemons.

I tow a 3t boat 20 times a year so was thinking the diesel but your right the petrol is far cheaper in purchase and running costs. I'm assuming the v8 is the best option on petrol?? My gut feeling is now about $22k for 2007 se v8 about 120000km on the clock.

Once again thanks for the advice thus far. I've been so hard at the diesels I know nothing about the v8 any pointers there??

The V8 in a D4 is a 5 litre, quite different to the 4.4 in a D3. The 4.4 is a good thing though and can't remember hearing about one that has had a major internal failure yet. Yes they do use more fuel, but maintenance is far less so swings and round a bouts.

I still have the TDV6 D3 as well, yes maintenance is quite expensive but its now a reasonably old and complicated vehicle compared to its opposition so that shouldn't be a surprise. I enjoy driving the D3 just as much as the D4, they are both great vehicles and in my opinion far superior to any other brand 4x4.

Much of the long horror list that DiscoDB offered up as maintenance issues and haggle points with the D3 will with time become similar issues with D4's especially with the earlier models.

All round the D4 is a better vehicle as one would reasonably expect but The D3 is also a great vehicle. Don't be put off by the horror story's here about them, like most older secondhand vehicles it can be luck of the draw.

A later model D3 V8 sounds like a good option I reckon.

All D3's will have the same transmission issues. Unless there's a service history on the transmission I'd be looking to save some money on anything over 100000km. After that it seems to become a bit of a catch 22 - the box seems to work fine until you change the oil which then flushes all the worn parts. The new oil doesn't generate as much friction and the box starts to slip. 120000km of hwy kms would possibly be ok though.

I was personally going to look at <100000km examples or >160000km and factor in a possible transmission rebuild. I think anything in between the seller wouldnt drop much off the price.

Good hunting!

Dan