Reply With QuoteShameless cross promotion here but if anyone is reading this thread looking for an adapter box to run their LED trailer lights I've got one for sale here.
Hope this is allowed, if not, mods please feel free to delete.
Thank you so much for this. Job well done!! :-)Originally Posted by Presto
Here's my LED light box build:
After building it I realised it could have been a fair bit smaller! If I had to do it again it would be a little different (eg, lead to large round socket would have been better), but works fine all the same.....
I got the board and relays from Jaycar ($20), but was surprised they didn't have the others... I got the resistors off ebay ($10) and the plug/socket from supercheap ($10 each), total $50 for parts!! (more than I'd expected, so decided to use some random wire I have rather than paying crazy money for trailer cable).
The Parts:
I decided to chop up the plug/sockets to neaten up the box, mounted the resistors and relays, and used my way-too-big soldering iron to make a mess of the soldering..... Still, it all tested up ok! (note the violet coloured wire should be brown - budget wouldn't stretch that far!!)
Time to build a box! ...so knocked up something in SolidWorks:
...then load it into the 3D printer:
Final Assembly:
A lick of paint, and I have something that the damn D3 recognises as a trailer!!
Quick question though, as I understand it the D4 does not require the relays? As it's only the D3 that sends a pulse down the line??
Therefore, the D4 would only require the 6 Ohm 50Watt resistors??
Good work!
Thanks again
Stevie B
Akl, NZ
Master
Shameless cross promotion here but if anyone is reading this thread looking for an adapter box to run their LED trailer lights I've got one for sale here.
Hope this is allowed, if not, mods please feel free to delete.
Fossicker
SupporterToday I confirmed that the D4 does not need relays and only needs one 0.47 ohm resistor (from Jaycar) that I insulated wires and screwed directly into earth and one indicator inside the 7 pin flat plug. Car no longer beeps when reversing trailer so I assume all the other trailer functions are also enabled. One trick, it is only recognised when you start the car, so plugging in trailer when car is going still results in beeping!
Wizard
G'day happydad,
How would you go about confirming if the other functions such as the gearbox map and tow functions are working? If it does all that then is it really as simple as placing a .47ohm res for both (so you get the light on the dash) indicator circuits?
Cheers
Wizard
With the resistor, I wonder if you can get a casing and simply place it in that for the heat and run it along, with sufficient insulation, the camper trailers wiring loom??
ChatterBox
Just so we don't go over old ground again:
You only NEED 1 resistor for the car to recognise there is a trailer attached, and for the functions to work.
Adding a second resistor has the benefit of giving the indication on the dash, regardless of which way you are turning.
The resistor (s) should be in a metal box, to absorb and dissipate the heat, although your indicators would have to be on for a long time for this to be an appreciable problem.
The D4 does NOT need relays. The D3 DOES need relays to stop the "pulsing" or "flickering" of the LED's.
Hope this helps to get all the info into one place.
Fossicker
Hi Guys,
Sorry if question has already been asked, I have a MY16 D4 we are just kitting out.
The lights work fine on my box trailer (incandescent lights) and boat trailer LED lights.
The green "trailer attached" indicator on the dash only flickers ON when I indicate. Reverse sensors are disabled.
***Edit just spoke to PCB Landovers here in adelaide and they said this is actually the correct function - it is supposed to flash?***
***So it seems a Nov Build MY16 works fine from the factory?***
So do I need to bother with resistors?
I am not fussed about the icon, I just want to make sure the D$ knows a trailer is attached to activate sway control etc.
It just seems odd to me that the car knows a trailer is connected (reverse sensors disabled) but yet the dash indicator is not working.
Happy to fit resistors, and would prefer to fit to the vehicle, not trailer, I just want to clarify if it is really ok to use a non-heat-sink-.47 ohm jaycar resistor (as per happydad59's post) or if it is safer to just buy a narva heatsink style (6-9 ohms).
Any help much appreciated.
Cheers
James
Master
SupporterTo replicate a 22W bulb on 12 volts you need a 6 ohm resistor drawing 2 amps. A 0.47 ohm resistor replicates 180W roughly at 12 volts drawing about 24 amps.
Wizard
Hi guys.
Im looking at adapters as all the trailers i will tow have a flat plug.
Just wondering if the following adapter still needs a resistor box, or if the LED circuit tester function does the job?
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Produ...-Socket/131415
I'm not well versed on electrical things.
Cheers
Dan
Super Moderator
SubscriberI'm thinking no Dan.
The LEDs mentioned on these adapters are intended to light up if there is a fault in individual wires (or perhaps not light up if there's a fault).
So nothing to do with the lack of resistance from LED lights on the trailer, which is why resistors are fitted by people in various ways.
Plus, if you have a D3 you also need the relays as summarised by Basil135 a couple of posts back in this thread.
Scott
D4 TDV6 MY14 with Llams, Tuffant Wheels, Traxide DBS, APT sliders & protection plates, Prospeed Winch Mount w/ Carbon 12K, Mitch Hitch & Drifta Drawers
Link to my D4 Build Thread
D3 2005 V8 Petrol
Ex '77 RRC 2 door. Long gone but not forgotten.
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