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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 31st March 2008, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcc49 View Post
Had a need to use the jack that came with the car Graah - the wheel nut remover that serves as a handle for the jack is useless, it stripped the hole that goes over the flattened end of the 10mm rod well before the wheel was off the ground. So out came my trusty 6" adjustable spanner - The weight saving 10mm rod started to twist and bend - it would have troble knocking the skin off of a rice pudding!!! Lucky I had a 22mm socket and a big hammer (to knock the socket onto the jack) and a bar to turn the socket. Got me out of trouble - in the middle of nowhere with no phone reception. Hope this note saves you some agro one day

David C
Get yourself a hydraulic jack as mentioned and also get an extendable socket handle. I got one for about $15 and it came with two double ended sockets of 18/20 21/23mm. The D3 nuts are 22mm and the 23mm works OK but I must buy a 22mm socket. Don't rely on the scissor jack or wheel nut spanner. On a 4wd magazine test they split the wheel nut spanner enough said. regards
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Old 1st April 2008, 05:27 AM
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After my wheel nut incident I also bought a 22mm socket and 450mm wrench to suit.
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Old 12th April 2008, 09:07 AM
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I got a couple of attachments made that sit on top of the jack head to lock the jack into the chassis rail. Work a treat.

But in testing these I noticed again a disturbing (to me anyway) thing that happens. As the car is raised the jack tilts towards the opposite side of the car. You can see it in the picture below where the base of the jack is off the ground. The leaning to the right is just my bad photography

I'm not an engineer but I assume this has to do with the height of the car when jacked up, which in turn means the car is levered over to the side opposite that being jacked.

I assume this is normal but it just looks weird.

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Old 12th April 2008, 09:46 AM
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That is a problem with jacks and is why trolley jacks have wheels. As you lift one part of the car it rotates slightly so the part of the chassis you are jacking on will move away from you slightly. Then you get more weight transfer to create a sideways load on the tires and before you know it there is enough movement to do this.

I have seen some jacks have a slightly curved base so that they start off with half the foot on the ground then rock to have the other half on the ground at full height.

This is one of the reasons you don't get under a car supported by a jack.

Something I read about the D3 is that you have to use the supplied wheel chocks when jacking as this greatly reduces the movement. Having said that, I would expect the movement in your pic as a best cast. On anything other than hard concrete the foot will sink slightly and this will be less visible.

Cheers, Steve
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