Does anyone else have a fuel guage that works intermittently?
mine works alright until a some rain and then it points anywhere it wants and the low fuel light does the same
i then work off the trip meter
My trip meter started working again. So I keep a eye on that. Now only gotta worry about my gearbox and srs light now.
I have never had any problems with mine... however the other day my low level light did come on when the tank was half full... then i turned the car off and back on again and the light disappeared.
Discos are getting older and the special cable that electrically connects level sensor moving parts, is worn or interrupted.
You must take off the level sensor array and repair it. The special cable is similar as the cables used between coil and connection block in most common speakers.
More info here: Google Traductor
Regards
I have just had to do this as my fuel guage started playing up and then died (ie kept on reading empty even when full) and so I opened up the guage sender in the tank and had a look at it and sure enough there is a fine wire which moves slightly as the float goes up and down, and it had fatigued and broken, I replaced it with some 12V flex I had lying around, but now I am worried (after looking at the google traductor post below) that my wire is not flexible enough, only time will tell. All in all a pretty easy job and it alerted me to the fact that my sound deadening is really wet which can't help anything so up it comes and in goes the dehumidifier for the night!
It is a fairly simple fix - if your problem is the same as mine. My gauge would get to about half full and then read empty, with the low fuel light illuminated. The problem turned out to be a broken wire on the sender unit.
First step is to remove the rear carpet clamp thing and roll the carpet and underlay so you can access the sender unit. Use a phillips head screwdriver to undo the screws holding the metal cover.
Unclip the electrics and with a couple of spanners (shifter is ok) undo the fuel lines
With a hammer and screw driver undo the retaining device. It will likely be on quite tightly but a couple of gentle taps will get it moving and you will be able to lift it off.
With the ring off lift out the sender unit.
There is a fairly small wire that is most likely broken. A bit of careful soldering iron work is required to prepare for the repair. Remove the broken wire and tidy up the solder joints. I used a piece of wire similar to the wire that was removed. It looks as if it needs to be flexible. Solder it in to the existing solder joints. With a multimeter connected to the wire at the plug check that you are not getting an open circuit and the resistance (ohm reading) varies as you move the float.
If all looks OK time to replace and see how you go...
Replacing the sender unit is the reverse of it's removal.
The gauge now seems to be working!
KevG
Hi all, thanks to these contributors, the advise has been most helpful. Id just like to add a couple of extra steps to this so it goes easier for people. on the tilt arm that has the float attached the wire is very thin less than 0.3mm, if you cut the plastic back 3mm around the solder joint theres quite a lot of good copper. I used a an engraving tool to remove 3mm deep and 5 mm long then cleaned up the copper base for soldering. I replaced the stiff wire with a 12cm piece of speaker wire. Soldered each end to the joints. tested it for continuity with multi tester, then used a small cable tie and connected the wire to the float arm. Now the wire moves with the float arm and there is no movement at all on the solder joint. Should fix it for a while :-)
I will try and post some pics
Fuel guage location
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...87714562461469
Sender fix
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...87714562461469
Hope you can see them
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