Reply With QuoteGood job. Yes Land Rovers improve your skill levels in many ways, and patience. I had the same problem with my D1 but it just needed a touch up of the dodgy solder.
So the rear windows don't work
Pulled out the switch box and moved the plug for the rear window to the Front window
Nope
Still won't work
I remember seeing another thread showing the ECU board behind the glove box ....
So out with the glove box
Looking at the colours of the wires at the switch console gives you the hint on which ECU box is the right one .... Don't attempt to remove the box ... Leave it where it is
Pull the 2 multi plugs off .... The top 1 is easy ... The bottom 1 is a swearword ... It has a holding clip ... Push the clip IN and pull the plug with long nose pliers .... or however you can
When you FINALLY get that plug out ... SNAP that clip off and throw it in the bin
There is a black fascia panel at the front of the ECU box ... Have a Goooood look at it and you will see the 6 clip tags ..... Now use a thin screwdriver and Peel it off
You will now see the board
Just pull the board out of it's housing ....
Congratulations ....Your now looking for the damage to the board
OK... This is the board ... Look on the upper RHS and you can see a burnt spot
There WAS 2 charcoaled, burnt out Diodes there ... My photo shows my new replacement Diodes already soldered in place
Solution was: .... I went to Jacar and showed them the board ... and they gave me .... a pack containing DIODE 1N4004 400V 1A DO41 .... 4 in a pack for 50c
This is the back of the board ... and shows my soldering of the Diodes ... The circuit board "tracks" was damaged from the heat of the burnt diodes ....So I just followed where the track lines went to
I then just used the extra length of the Diode wires, to bridge to the next component .... So you can see in the photo, how I "bridged"
I also found 2 cold solder joints on the other components .....
When I finished .... Plugged it back in ... and ..... It happily works again
TIP: .... When soldering, Go down to the Hobby shop (Radio controlled Airplanes etc) and buy a little bottle of liquid flux .... as you need to solder the joint in an instant as excessive solder heat will kill the electrical parts
If you need to do this job yourself >>>> This job is fairly easy for the hobbyist at heart ... Just print the photos to compare it to yours
Finally ...
I'ld like to give a big thankyou to LR ... For making me into a budding electrician
Cheers
Mike
Last edited by mike 90 RR; 25th April 2011 at 09:35 AM.
Master
SubscriberGood job. Yes Land Rovers improve your skill levels in many ways, and patience
Simon
95 Defender HCPU 130
Fossicker
Yeah, gotta love the window ECU, back windows on mine stopped working yesterday (both wide open).
I Used this "Repair a Land Rover Discovery electric window ECU to make the rear windows open again" to help locate the ECU box, when i got it out the solder they mention on that guide was dodgy so i fixed it, plugged in and still no luck so after another look i noticed another bit of solder was a bit dodgy.
Soldered up and now they work fine.
Master
Any other clues? I have no obvious dry joints and no obvious failed components. I checked the diodes with a multimeter and they are operating normally.
My symptoms were longer lag time from starting the car to operation of rear window switches and gradually worsening until no operation of rear windows. (Fronts have always been fine) The picture from the link is slightly different to mine in that I have only 3 relays rather than the five in the post. PCB seems the same in all other respects.
ChatterBox
AWESOME
I finally know what is wrong with my rear windows haha, thansk soo much, everyone that goes in the back has been pestering me to re-wire them, but i didn't even know where to start looking. Mine used to 'heat up' and work after driving for 10 minutes or so, now they've given up the ghost completely, i'll give this a go.
Cheers
Will
Master
not so sure about liquid flux.Originally Posted by mike 90 RR
TIP: .... When soldering, Go down to the Hobby shop (Radio controlled Airplanes etc) and buy a little bottle of liquid flux .... as you need to solder the joint in an instant as excessive solder heat will kill the electrical parts
.......
Cheers
Mike
Rather, while you are at Jaycar or any other electronic hobbyist supply store get some resin-core solder. This comes with flux inside it, and if you use the wrong stuff you wil be leaving a corrosive residue that will cause more damage than you started with. As well as that you need the proper soldering iron for electronics so leave the plumbers soldering iron in the cupboard. Yes, too much heat will kill components, so its a brief sharp hot dab with the correct soldering iron.
Swaggie
Mine were the same. When I pulled the circuit board there was one obviously dry joint. I re-flowed the solder oon that one and any others which looked a bit sus. No new solder or flux needed. Works better than new now...
ChatterBox
Funny though because after i filled the interior up with 1" of muddy water they worked all the time haha, then when it dried they stopped forever... lol had me baffled
Fossicker
If you're desperate, this web site http://www.roverparts.com/Techtips/WindowLiftRepair.cfm
gives you a fix by bypassing the windows ECU (but no need to use posi-lock connectors) . This fix worked for me, the rear windows are working fine, but the central locking has been disabled as a result.
Last edited by p38arover; 30th May 2014 at 06:30 PM. Reason: Fixed URL
Fossicker
My wife has been complaining about the rear windows for a few months, I thought she was going crazy. Well I saw this link, I pulled it out today and found a dry solder point, works like a treat now
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