Thread: R380 to lt230

Anybody? If you have done this recently can you remember or know how many bolts from t case to gearbox? I cannot find anything which would be keeping them together. I have 6 bolts out. Surely the sealant couldn't be this tuff. Im not a weak person n the 40kg of tcase wiggling is not too weak either.

There's a bunch facing backwards and one single nut on a stud facing forwards. It's on the RHS above the centre diff from memory. Can't remember the exact number of bolts.

Originally Posted by bee utey

There's a bunch facing backwards and one single nut on a stud facing forwards. It's on the RHS above the centre diff from memory. Can't remember the exact number of bolts.

i had 2 bolts on the bottom of the mating faces. one facing forward and the other facing the back (i think) there is a bolt facing to the front on the right side near the selector lever (which i assume is the hidden bolt).

there were 3 bolts closer to the top all facing the back of the vehicle. the two very top ones being slightly different lengths.

i dont see any nut on a stud anywhere. just these six bolts. i have gone through the whole thing top to bottom. cant see anything. but they seem to be clamoed together so tightly. you would think all bolts are still there. it just doesnt even budge.

driving me insane. i almost swore at my mother when she called. that cannot happen.

Just done one. 6 fastenings. In my case they were five studs with nuts and one bolt. I believe bolts became the norm as time went on. Mine was an early r380 lt230 combo from 94.

Took a bit of effort to separate the tc from the gb. We used a flat bladed screw driver and hammer to gently pry them apart. Once started it didn't take much. Overzealous use of silicon around the tc input seal was the reason for the sticking but there are also dowels that locate the two units correctly and they could be tight as well.

Hey fausto, yes 6
I just changed mine as well as the gearbox. However I dropped mine together before splitting the transfer.
If you can wedged chisel first then a crow bar between the 2 (without damaging, gentle taps, and take your time) helps, as there are locating dowel pegs which obviously prevent movement.
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put a washer stack inside the support bearing of the pto cover.

slide it oer your guide studs and put 3 bolts in, tigtehn it up finger tight and even, tighten each bolt no more than 1/6th of a turn past finger tight.

belt front drive flange with a rubber mallet.

check the tension on the 3 bolts on the plate retighten as needed, belt the output flange again.

you only need to do this a few ties to break the bond between the Tcase and the gearbox.

remember where the short bolt goes on reassembly and DONT be under the tcase when its time to pull it out if your doing it via mandraulics, especially if you havent locked up or removed the parkbrake drum because when you panic in the moment it slides off the dowels and guides you are going to try and grab at it and its going to turn on you.

ok i got the transfer out finally with a lot of swearing and the thing getting caught a few times on the exhaust mount and on other various bit.

i did manage to get a few gouges on the face of the transfer and one right near where the output seal is. i circled in in red on one of the pics. doesnt seem to be on the inside of the seal, just on the outside. is this going to be an issue? and the other marks on the face? if i sand it down a bit it should be ok shouldnt it? i managed to make a meal of the seal. luckily i have a full sealing kit. the box itself though was leak free. whoever did it before has used a lit of sealant etc. and was very dry. im a bit reluctant to re seal stuff that isnt broken, mostly because whoever did it probably did a better than job than i am capable of.

anyway not that is out the way, it's time to get the geabox out.

whole point of excercise it to do rear main, clutch and slave cyl. there's a lot of oil around that area and some smelly stuff that i think is clutch fluid coming out of wading plug. with everything out i can see the back of engine too as i think there may be oil leaking down the back.

i want to get this thing as leak free as possible and keep the engine bay looking nice.

also, does anyone know what that connector is on the transfer (picture called plug)? is this a newer tranfer case with a temperature alarm?

i have the female ends in the car but was wondering, i bought an ems2 kit and i have an oil temp sender on a plug which i'd like to put on the tranfer case. would this be a good location for it? i would rather not put it on drain plug as it will certainly rip off and get pretty thrashed there.

thanks again. i love this place.

Are you referring to the switch with the two upright spade terminals? That's the locked/unlocked switch that provides the red locked/4wd light on your dash.