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Thread: Slave Cylinder Top Bolt

  1. #1
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    Slave Cylinder Top Bolt

    Had a look at a few threads on this topic. not too many but seems like it's an occasionally occuring issue. i have been putting my car back together and whilst doing the top bolt on the slave cylinder to bellhousing never felt any resistance. just kept winding it in until it was obvious the thread was stuffed.

    not sure if it was like this before but doubt it seeing as a few other people's had spat the slave out on the road. also i remember when i undid it it needed some force. so might have been softened previously. possibly a design issue with soft housing and slave putting odd pressure on the threads. dunno.

    not sure how to tackle this. seems like too tight a space to drill a new hole and put helicoil in. i have pulled gearbox out twice in the last week, i'll be f....d if i'm doing it again.

    can you just use a tap and thread an 11/32s hole where the old one is and use bigger bolt? can it be done without drilling first? was thinking maybe putting hole through to the other side and using a nut but dont think there is enough clearance to the housing.

    Any advice is very appreciated. one day the problems will stop.
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    usually cause by ham fisted mechanics using 1/2 inch drive ger when 1/4-3/8th would have done and not doing the job properly by means of filing to clean threads properly or relying on one bolt to pull the whole thing down before starting the next bolt.


    look up helicoils you wont have room to swing the tap handle properly but a 1/4 inch (or 3/8th depending on which kit you get)4-6(might be 8 its been a while) inch extension used in reverse with the appropriate swivel will get you clearance enough, just be careful when starting the tap.
    Dave

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    usually cause by ham fisted mechanics using 1/2 inch drive ger when 1/4-3/8th would have done and not doing the job properly by means of filing to clean threads properly or relying on one bolt to pull the whole thing down before starting the next bolt.


    look up helicoils you wont have room to swing the tap handle properly but a 1/4 inch (or 3/8th depending on which kit you get)4-6(might be 8 its been a while) inch extension used in reverse with the appropriate swivel will get you clearance enough, just be careful when starting the tap.
    dont you have to drill out the leftover before you tap for the helicoil though? thats my main problem, how do i fit a drill down there?

    might just take it to rover guy here to deal with it once i get it running.

    do you think the one bolt will hold out for a while or is that just a bad idea?

  4. #4
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    If it was me, I'd try to retap to the original thread first and clean that bolt up before replacement (obvious). If you can put a socket onto the tap and an extension you wont need a tap handle. A little loctite and nip it up before it skips as long as you feel it has a pretty decent bite. If that fails tap to the next size up, but you'll need to drill it out first. Surely there would be enough meat around it to go one size up.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fausto79 View Post
    dont you have to drill out the leftover before you tap for the helicoil though? thats my main problem, how do i fit a drill down there?

    might just take it to rover guy here to deal with it once i get it running.

    do you think the one bolt will hold out for a while or is that just a bad idea?
    bad itsea.

    you can get in with an angle head drill and sometimes a pneumatic drill.

    if its stripped all the thread out that should now be at near enough to the right diameter for the helicol tap to go through if your careful.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    I dont see the point of using a helicoil unless you want to keep the original size bolt, either way the hole has to be tapped.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by theNEWT View Post
    I dont see the point of using a helicoil unless you want to keep the original size bolt, either way the hole has to be tapped.
    Stronger, you don't have to modify the slave cylinder, makes it easier the next time you pull it apart. Just a few reasons.

    Cheers,
    Mick.
    1968 SIIa SWB
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  8. #8
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    Fair enough. I have heli-coils but as yet have never used them, I've always tapped next size...but no doubt there are times they are useful.

  9. #9
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    ive used helicoils before. they are great. as you can see from original post i did mention them but the problem being that it's a hard place to drill.

    i looked at 90 degree drill bits etc. but to be honest by the time i buy that and then a helicoil kit etc im looking at a bit of cash and also i am always scared with things like that in case i wreck it completely.

    rover specialist over here said for $80 bucks he can do it. been spending too much time on the car lately and still have cooling system and power steering to go then finally install my ems. so i'll just let him do the helicoil and front swivel housing seal and spend that time with my wife who has been very patient with me.

    thanks for all your replies though.

  10. #10
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    I have used Helicoils for a few years and find them to be fabulous but they are a last resort option. Always clean out the 20 or so year old threads with the correct tap first and see if that works.

    Sent from my GT-I9506 using AULRO mobile app

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