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Thread: Leaking Fuel Pump Need Advice

  1. #1
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    Leaking Fuel Pump Need Advice

    Looks like I found what was covering the driver side of my motor and diff with 'oil'. When the engine is running I'm seeing diesel leaking down at the back of my pump right by where the injector lines thread into the housing/pump. I can't tell if it's coming from the bottom line but it doesn't appear to be. It accumulated right at bottom most torx/star head bolt and drips down from there. Hard to tell but the fuel seems to be coming from around the backside of the pump between the pump body and engine block. This may have been an issue before for the PO as there is gasket maker goop smeared on the visible side of the pump where two halves are bolted together.

    Eff my life... So I guess this means a full pump rebuild is needed?

    uploadfromtaptalk1458459753980.jpguploadfromtaptalk1458459988252.jpguploadfromtaptalk1458460213252.jpguploadfromtaptalk1458460629342.jpg

  2. #2
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    leaking distributor head o ring.

    bout 2 hours to fix including cleanup prior to starting and you dont even need to take the pump out to fix it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    You're getting my hopes up damn you. God I only hope it's that simple. Are there any write ups on this fix on here?

  4. #4
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    I think Ive got the links to it from when I did mine last...

    short version.. (and you cant drive it once you start till after you get it finished, plan ahead)

    • go online order the seal kit for the pump. start cleaning. you're aiming for and must exceed the cleanliness standard for doing the head. Im not even going to make a smart ass comment that might let you think I might be joking.
    • while you wait for the kit and after you finish cleaning, clean it again and then remove one of the long bolts (this is for you to take with you as a sample when you buy the "service" bolts to make sure you get the right sizes) that holds the distributor pump into the head
    • get 4 m6x1x55mm long bolts
    • remove the injector lines (match mark them/take photos if you need to)
    • remove the support mounting bracket from the head of the pump
    • remove the diagonally opposite bolt from the head block, install and gently wind in 2 55mm bolts
    • slowly and carefully unwind the remaining 2 orginal bolts the head should stop on the longer bolt and the oring will be exposed if it isnt put in another of your long bolts and wind it in until it is 8mm higher (and aim for shorter) than the existing bolts. this is your stop bolt, if you have to extract the head past this bolt you have a different previously rebuilt pump with a different to stock head. you now have to be careful or you may wind up doing an on engine rebuild. NOT fun. if the oring is exposed pull it clear and cut it.
    • carefully work the new oring over the head it will sit into the grove and hang on the 2 longer bolts
    • wind in the other 2 55mm bolts
    • Carefully lift the oring clear of one of the 55mm bolts and unwind it.
    • repeat for the other 55mm bolt
    • relube the oring and pump head face with your choice of oring grease or diesel
    • wind in 2 of the original bolts
    • when you have 4-5 turns on the original bolts remove the 55mm bolts and then replace them with the original bolts.
    • slowly and evenly 1/4 of a turn at a time seat the head
    • remove the bolts one at a time apply a drop of loctite 242 and replace then tighten up.
    • replace the supporting bracket
    • replace the injector lines


    Done.

    heres a link to a post that has the diesel geek pdf attached.
    Defender 300Tdi Injector pump rebuild/reseal Brisbane

    hope that helps

    if not sling pms and questions.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    to assist you with further fault finding and leak finding.

    remove the fan (or blanket the radiator) (do not drop the belt off, you could be running the engine for long enough for the engine to catastrophically overheat without the coolant pump turning)
    clean the injector pump thoroughly (use a little diesel and a tooth brush then use carby cleaner then hot soapy water then some brake cleaner then a hairdrier to dry it all)
    dust it with talcum powder if you cant get the talcum powder to stick make a paste with it and apply that or spray it down with water and then dust it, wait for it to dry)
    start it and run it up and down the rev range for a minute or 2 or until you see the diesel leak. which ever comes first.
    shut it down
    search for where the leak starts
    if you cant see the leak repeat the process.

    IF you have to run the engine for long enough that the temp gauge starts to move you MUST have someone watch the temperature gauge. if you have blanketed the radiator begin to open up the radiator a fraction at a time, if you have removed the fan work out how to manually start the aircon fans as well as have a good pair of desk fans to put in front of the radiator and blow down on the exhuast side of the engine to help cool the engine. Turn the heater on flat out as well.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
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    Yep, I think I'd best just take it to a shop. Lol

    I'm handy with a wrench/spanner, and I think I understood most everything you said, but I'd be paranoid to screw something up without someone more knowledgeable in these matters looking over my shoulder.

    But thanks for the write up/details on how to tackle the job and what it consist of.

  7. #7
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    a more accurate location might source you someone you can bribe with a bit more knowledge to come round and do it for you if you do all the leg work of getting the bits and doing all the prep work.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
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    I'm in Bundaberg, QLD at the moment. I'll have to look and see how to add my locale on here since I'm using Tapatalk to view this forum.

  9. #9
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    This is the seal Landrover Bosch VE Injector Pump Head Viton Seal VEG Resistant | eBay
    Also has some links to Utube.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the link!

    I'm going to have a local shop try to tackle it for me. Just gotta get the parts together for them first.

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