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| Discovery 1 Chat specifically relating to Discovery 1's |
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Yep,, the keys wear the barrel,,
Take it to a decent locksmith,, as for the windows,, could be the winder motors or the rails the glass sits in, one fails, the other rusts away! the motors are an easy fix,, buy off ebay. in either case you WILL break some of the small clips that hold the door panels on,, hmm,, wasnt there a cheap fix for these?? Nearly all D1's will suffer these symptoms,, Keep The Faith!
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Pedro_The_Swift For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (17th August 2008) | ||
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Quote:
I repaired my rear window problem on Wednesday. It took around an hour an was dead easy. Dry joint on the ECU board as mentioned in numerous threads and posts here. I also repaired my front passenger window by replacing the broken nylon rollers with home made nylon slides. A bit more difficult but still doable in an afternoon. I don't know where Cedar Grove is but I am in Frankston if I can be any help. If you want some new nylon slides I would be happy to make you up a set. I borrowed a mates router, made a jig and bought an old chopping board from Savers for a $1.49. Worked a treat. Don't panic! It really is a simple fix. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to discomuzz For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (17th August 2008) | ||
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Hi Jodie - dont dispair - the D1s are very sound mechanically but you get the odd gremlin...but you do in any vehicle. You are better off having the odd window problem than needing a new gearbox at 150,000k or a new motor at 200,000k like some other vehicle brands.
The windows are prone with age to the nylon rollers fracturing as stated above. Whilst the rollers are easily replaced or made up, a brand new regulator (electric motor and arms) can be had from Ashdowns for about $150...given that they only go about every 100,000k say thats not a bad investment to get a new motor also. As for the ones that dont work at all, its probably a simple electrical problem with the switch - burnt contacts or sticky stuff spilt into them etc - give them a clean up first and then if you dont have luck you can take it to a sparky. As for the key, your best friend, and a locksmiths worst nightmare is the bottle of dry graphite My D2 had problems where I couldnt take the key out of the ignition. A good locksmith told me that I needed to stick some graphite powder into it say once every 6 months...did that and never had a problem again. I did it also to my D1. I did it to the locks on the outside also for good measure. You can get it from locksmiths...squirt it in (its a bit messy and bad for cloths) and work the key in and out and turn the lock...another squirt and more working the key and you should be in business. At worst the tumblers are getting worn and you may need a new barrel but thats at the worst.Cheers |
| The Following User Says Thank You to ozscott For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (17th August 2008) | ||
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Thanks for the replies guys. I might get hold of a locksmith to sort out the ignition. Thanks for the offer Discomuzz but Cedar Grove is in Queensland. I might get the hubby to have a look and see what he can do. He is actually pretty handy with things (cause his patrol keeps breaking down!!!). Shhh dont tell him I said that.
I really need the ignition thing sorted cause we are heading down to Dubbo in September for a holiday. I really appreciate the replies and I will let you know how I go.Thanks Jodie |
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Jodie,
Try the other fixes given by others first but if the windows still don't work, might be a gremlin in the Body Control Unit. I had a problem with my windows in my previous D1 and after trying lots of things, the BCU was changed (under warranty thankfully) and it all worked. Mundy |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Mundy For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (18th August 2008) | ||
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Hi Jodie,
Just had my ignition repaired by a locksmith. I was doing the "graphite" thing for a few months but it eventually seized. Save yourself the grief and go and find a good locksmith before it jams - cost me about $120. The problem, I am told, is the barrel wears and the key ends up going too far in. Works great now.
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I've had enough of this wowdy webel sniggewing behaviour. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Sleepy For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (18th August 2008) | ||
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Just a thought, but regarding the ignition barrel, when I had my D1 I had this issue,
I thought it was the barrel, but when I removed the shroud off the steering col. I found that the clamp bolts (security type) holding the barrel mechanism onto the col were loose - and this would cause the steering locking mechanism to snag - and stop the key from turning. Just a thought - but you may want to check this first - as it's a cheap fix |
| The Following User Says Thank You to ladas For This Useful Post: | ||
Landy Lady (18th August 2008) | ||
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Well I have to say a big THANK YOU to all that replied. I had a locksmith come out and he ended up stripping the ignition and giving it a good clean-up and now it works great. Hubby also fixed the roller on the front window and found the problem with the back windows. It was a faulty solder on the ECU(or whatever its called). So I now love my Landy again thanks to all you guys!!!
![]() Thanks Jodie |
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