p.s. i started grammar and spell checking this, but couldn't be bothered![]()
I was asked the other day about using Nanocom to adjust the ride height on an SLS fitted D2, so here is a quick quide and some pics. I will assume you know how to, and have measured the standing height before this process is started. and know where(how high) you want the height to go to.
This is a guide only, use it at your own risk.
Or simply buy a lift kit from Tombie like i did. I used this purely for some fine tuning.
raising the rear by a small amount also stiffens the airsprings so take that into account.
Firstly. Ignition needs to be on but engine not running.
go into nanocom to SLABS ASB-SLS(Disco II) setting and enter.
scroll through a heap of settings until you come to this one RAISE LEFT.
enter, and the compressor will buzz 4 or 5 times and lift the left rear.
scroll 2 more times and get RAISE RIGHT
enter and buzzing and right lifts.
do this once or a couple of times for each side until you are happy with the height. DON'T OVER DO IT. you are going past the standard operating specs of the suspension setup.
when you are happy scroll through to STORE HEIGHTS.
This will save the current height settings into the ECU.
There are also setting in there to lower left and right if you want to put it back to standard afterwards.
Cheers and have fun.
p.s. i started grammar and spell checking this, but couldn't be bothered![]()
Hi everyone
Some time ago i personally fixed some spelling mistakes on the Nanocom,
I asked Mattia "From Nanocom" if i could post the FIXED language Pack V2.05 to some forums and he said it was ok.
Secondly Thanks for showing the pics BUT It's Very difficult to obtain equal height just by using UP/DOWN functions.
I personally use to square blocks placed between the Axle "flat part" and where the rubber stops are,
I Then Lift both sides using the RAISE function, place the square blocks 100mm X 100mm in the gap mentioned above.
Then i lower it till it touches and sits onto these blocks and STORE the Settings
Job Done and never had any problems since.
Hope this Helps
Cheers
Vince
while i agree a certain amount on the equal heights not being able to be acheived by this method without measuring, i dont agree with doing it with blocks. i beleive it should be done by measuring at the wheel centre to the wheel arch. a number of things in the suspension can affect the ride level left to right. no point setting the rears to be the same with blocks if the car does not sit level. infact if done by weight jacking with equal weight on each wheel left to right, you can end up with unusual ride heights left to right even though the car is properley balanced on the springs.
If you have a look at the Rave manual
IT STATES the use of calibration blocks to achieve the same and equal height
which is what i've mentioned before
However everyone is free to choose own methods.
The way you mention Rosscoe88 by measuring the height i suppose is ok
ONLY IF the car is on flat level ground,
Vince
Had a mate come around with his Nanocom & laptop to give me a approx 30mm lift in the rear after a put upgraded shocks & springs in the front.
Had the car on dead level ground and jacked up the rear from under the tow hitch being dead centre. This lifted the vehicle in a balanced mode and then recalibrated the height sensor setting through the laptop.
Had to jack up a little higher (5 - 6 mm) then what we were after to take into account the changes to load bearing on the tyres.
Grimmy now sits dead level measuring the sill height front and back.
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New :- D3 TDV6 2006 SE
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