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Thread: replacing cv's

  1. #1
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    replacing cv's

    Well after breaking my passenger side c'v i decided that I should give it a go replacing it my self, gain experience and all that stuff.
    Did a search on the site and came across Hendrik's info on front diff repairs (great info, thanks)and a big thanks to Disco thrasher (Kelvin)for all the imput with my phone calls and the loan of a 1/2" Impact rattle gun.

    I thought Id put up a long winded post with pics of the process.
    The job is quite straight forward, the difficulty I had was un doing the hub nut, 1/2" 750w impact driver and 4 foot breaker bar did not budge it. So down to hire a 3/4" 900w impact driver, it still took time. man the nut was tight.
    After removing the caliper and rotor, removed the sensor and plugged the hole so no junk got in.
    Undo the 4 bolts holding the hub and with a light tap off it came.
    Removed the axle to find the end was rounded, great up for a new axle, I replaced it with a hytuff, I would love to get a pair of h/duty cv's and axles but there is no time.
    Removed and replaced axle oil seal.
    Next i greased up the cv and put the retainer clip in the axle rebate, tap the cv over the clip gently until it is home on the axle, ( remember to fit the new rubber boot first).
    Fitted axle and put it all back together
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  2. #2
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    Im going to replace the driver side after Easter and carry a spare. when doing the hub nut up again it is to be really tight, I think the manual said around the 340pound mark.
    ive done it up tight but I can undo it in the bush with a breaker bar and extension

    Any way all done. Thought Id post this in case some one else was interested on how to burr knuckles and draw blood
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  3. #3
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    Good Stuff.
    Removing CV's is not that hard, I've had mine out so many times I could probably do it in my sleep . Your right with the stakenut, can be an absolute pain to undo. I usually pull out the whole assembly and put it in a vice and use a 3/4in drive 33mm socket to undo it with a 5foot breaker bar. Another pain is to remove the brake disk as the soft screw that holds it in is very easy to damage.

    Did your new boots come with the securing clamps? The stoke boots have that brass or copper ring around the big ends of the cv, but for some reason the new ones you buy have something different which do not look like they are up to the job at all...I guess time will tell.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hendrik View Post
    Good Stuff.
    Removing CV's is not that hard, I've had mine out so many times I could probably do it in my sleep . Your right with the stakenut, can be an absolute pain to undo. I usually pull out the whole assembly and put it in a vice and use a 3/4in drive 33mm socket to undo it with a 5foot breaker bar. Another pain is to remove the brake disk as the soft screw that holds it in is very easy to damage.

    Did your new boots come with the securing clamps? The stoke boots have that brass or copper ring around the big ends of the cv, but for some reason the new ones you buy have something different which do not look like they are up to the job at all...I guess time will tell.
    I left the wheel on so I could use the weight of the car to undo the nut, I broke a 1/2" 2 foot breaker bar, replaced it with a 3/4" and used my terfer extension handle to re tighten. Yep your right about that screw for the rotor, Ive had them off before but this time I had to munch it with the old twist impact driver.
    Yes the clamps were included, there just like hose clamps that crimp, hope they last

  5. #5
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    I would recommend if you do have to replace a CV that when removing the hub assy that you disconnect the ABS sensor at the inner wing plug / connection instead of disturbing it in the hub assy itself, is opening up "potential" 3 amigo issues as they have to be fitted "just right" to work properly and not throw error codes.

  6. #6
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    I'm lucky, removed it twice from the hub so far, good advice. I hate those Amigos

  7. #7
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    I have always pulled mine out at the hub, all it is is just a magnetic sensor which counts the teeth as they come by. I kept getting an intermittent fault on my LHS front one, so before I was about to buy a new one, I pulled it out and pumped the whole hub full of grease through the abs sensor hole... strangely enough have not had a fault there since.

  8. #8
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    when puting the sensors back in,, allways put a new o ring and grease, then push the sensor all the way in and then put your bolt in till tight,, then litghly tap the sensor to make sure its all the way in,, then recheak the bolt, and it will be ok,, never had one fault

  9. #9
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    Before I put it back in I wiped bit of grease over it and reinstalled . I'll take any precaution against the Amigos
    Last edited by Baffle; 5th April 2010 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Sick of this question

  10. #10
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    Just to add a bit more , the original nut is 1&1/4" and the new cv nut is 36mm, must be a difference in brands.

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