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Thread: Discovery 2 steering lock

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Discovery 2 steering lock

    We've just had a drama with Daisy's steering lock. Thought it might be worth recording what we did and what we learned. Our key was sticky in the lock for a while but a quick squirt of WD40 seemed to be doing the trick. Last week it suddenly got impossible to turn the key at all. Lesson 1: catastrophic failure can be sudden. I called the AA to help. Turned out the lock was stuffed. He slid the immobiliser coil off the lock and then unscrewed the ignition switch from the other end. Starting the engine was now possible by holding the key through the immobiliser coil, placing it in the ignition lock and turning it. A well aimed centre punch and hammer made short work of the shear off bolts holding the lock in place. We now had a working car. Calls to all the usual parts suppliers comfirmed that a D2 lock is a dealer only part. The local dealers were very helpful and promised to supply and fit a lock that fitted my existing keys for £290, up front, in full, plus proof of registration and ID. Oh, and they wanted to fit it themselves - that price did not include labour.

    I had a think. It turns out that part no STC1435 (Late Disco 1 lock) looks identical to the D2 lock. I am informed that it is identical. It comes with plain keys but you can get blades from eBay to fit your key. It does mean that your door key and ignition key are no longer the same but how many of us us the iron key to open the door? STC 1435 averages £60 in UK. HEALTH WARNING: we did something else.

    I know a good lock smith. I gave him Daisy's lock, he fixed it for £40, I remounted the lock and she was a good as new. Only clue is a few babs of araldite on the lock casing.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    All D2 locks will fail eventually,, the small ball you have to force past pushes the blade up and wears those wafers out.

    The use of WD40 and the like is BAD!
    (in nearly all of its advertised applications)

    The locksmith should be able to rejig the wafers once,, but eventually you will have to replace the barrel.




    Do you want a Land Rover you can start with a screwdriver or a LR key?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
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    Pedro, looks like I'll be buying STC1435 eventually; I'm not springing £200++ just to have the same key on my door and ignition.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    yep,, I hear ya,,

    The D1 seems the next logical step,,

    anybody price a new D2 barrel in OZ lately?
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
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    Around $800- last month.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Hampton Park
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    Hello,

    I have read various threads on this subject.
    When it happened to me, I blasted graphite in the key hole and lots of it. I then inserted and removed the key about 20 or 30 times. I then blasted more graphite into the key hole. It was initially a little sticky for a day or two but came good. This was well over 12 months ago.
    I know it goes against advice from various people about the workings of a Land Rover ignition key barrel and that it needs to be replaced etc, but my ignition barrel was seized and with a good blast of graphite now works perfectly and keeps doing so.

    Cheers,

    Jason

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