Brake fluid quantity?

**AussieAub** · 29th May 2011, 07:55 PM

Hi guys.
Finally got round to doing the "option B" fix on my 3 amigos, only to find after removal of the two out side allen bolts that someone got there previously to me and had attacked the centre bolt and put it back in on the pi$$, without doing the required re-wiring, knackering the head of the middle bolt in the process, and then putting the other 2 back in, in a fashion.

Long story short: good friend BST4X4XFA came round as an extra pair of hands (cheers again bud) and we had to remove the ABS block completely after removing the 6x brake lines coming from it.

Option B job done and everything re-assembled, we now obviously need to bleed the system.
I have used the search button (honsestly) but need a few definitive answers:

1. Do I have to do the "power bleed" thing with a Nanacom or other system, or will an old fashioned manual bleed on all four corners suffice? We did start the latter but ran out of fluid. Will this cause a prob (obviously running out of fluid is a prob, but by starting a manual bleed am I likely to expect more issues now?)

2. How much fluid will be required, and will it depend on which method of bleeding is carried out?

3. Have tried a Nanaocm on the V8 before (not recently), and it could not even "see" the vehicle. Is this really the case? Owner of unit is/was a TD5 owner.

Bit stuck at the mo as the Disco is now sat on the drive with no brakes!
Well, it's GOT brakes, just VERY little pressure and the red brake warning light is on, and I'm going nowhere in it til it's fixed!

Any advice would be most gratefully received.

Cheers,

**Blknight.aus** · 29th May 2011, 08:26 PM

you can bleed it by manually firing the unit.

hit the web, grab the pinout for the unit and manually operate the valve units while you conduct a normal brake bleed.

IF your going to do it that way it might take about 2l of fluid, especially if the unit and the calipers are empty.

its easier to do it with a nanocom or similar.

**Fluids** · 29th May 2011, 08:39 PM

I bought 2.5L of brake fluid. Changed all the pads, and flushed the complete system incl' ABS using a nanocom. I have 1.5L of brake fluid left. You want at least 1L.

It's quicker to pump the brake pedal to flush the fluid through to each corner ... and even quicker with a helper to pump the pedal .... nanocom / other diagnostic tool / manually jumper the ABS relay to properly flush the ABS.

**AussieAub** · 29th May 2011, 09:01 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

.....you can bleed it by manually firing the unit.
.....and manually operate the valve units.....

Sorry Dave, what does this mean?

Originally Posted by Fluids

....manually jumper the ABS relay to properly flush the ABS.

And again, sorry Kev, but what is "jumping the ABS" relay?

Thanks for the replies so far guys.

**AussieAub** · 29th May 2011, 09:09 PM

Another question, sorry!
Wanting to get this right, I tend to worry a little when it comes to brakes!!

Reading on a number of Landrover forums is giving conflicting info as to what RAVE is showing.
I am reading that I should bleed from the furthest wheel away from the master/ABS unit first, and work my way closer.
This is a direct contradiction of what RAVE shows, by starting at the passenger front and working the other way around the vehicle.

Can anyone clarify this too please?

Many thanks.

**tailslide** · 29th May 2011, 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Sorry Dave, what does this mean?

And again, sorry Kev, but what is "jumping the ABS" relay?

Thanks for the replies so far guys.

Hi Kieren,

The old fashioned manual (two operators, one with the foot and one at the bleed nipple on each caliper) bleed works good enough to get you going again.

Note: this is best performed with some beverage tubing that is long enough to go into a glass jar. Keep the end of the tube covered by brake fluid in the jar so that you don't introduce air into the system when you lift up on the brake pedal. By using this method you don't need to close the nipple on the up stroke. Makes for faster bleeding.

The "power" bleed is when you removed the ABS relay and insert a jumper wire across the "contacts" to cause the ABS pump to run. Do this after you have completed the manual bleed.

I have done the above on mine after doing the option B and removing the whole unit. In my experience there is no need to perform a Testbook power bleed.

I used this as an excuse to fully flush the brake system as well, I used about 2 1/2 bottles of DOT4 Castrol brake fluid.

Cheers
Ron

**tailslide** · 29th May 2011, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Another question, sorry!
Wanting to get this right, I tend to worry a little when it comes to brakes!!

Reading on a number of Landrover forums is giving conflicting info as to what RAVE is showing.
I am reading that I should bleed from the furthest wheel away from the master/ABS unit first, and work my way closer.
This is a direct contradiction of what RAVE shows, by starting at the passenger front and working the other way around the vehicle.

Can anyone clarify this too please?

Many thanks.

Don't worry, be happy.

I followed the RAVE method, working away from the ABS unit. It doesn't really matter, once the air is out of the block it is just going to travel down the brake lines till you squirt it out at the wheels.

Just remember to keep an eye on the reservoir level...

Cheers
Ron

**AussieAub** · 29th May 2011, 09:29 PM

Originally Posted by RSCHIPP

The "power" bleed is when you removed the ABS relay and insert a jumper wire across the "contacts" to cause the ABS pump to run. Do this after you have completed the manual bleed.

Cheers
Ron

Thanks Ron.
I'm still feeling a little lost on this bit!
Where's the relay? What contacts, where? Any special wire?!
What would getting the ABS pump to run do AFTER the manual bleed?
Surely there is no where for any air to escape to afterwards, or am I missing something else?

Sorry for so many questions.....I know it's late, but just can't get my head around it clearly enough right now to be comfortable.

Cheers all, thanks for being patient!

**LOVEMYRANGIE** · 29th May 2011, 09:39 PM

You want to borrow my Nanocom mate???

Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

**tailslide** · 29th May 2011, 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by AussieAub

Thanks Ron.
I'm still feeling a little lost on this bit!
Where's the relay? What contacts, where? Any special wire?!
What would getting the ABS pump to run do AFTER the manual bleed?
Surely there is no where for any air to escape to afterwards, or am I missing something else?

Sorry for so many questions.....I know it's late, but just can't get my head around it clearly enough right now to be comfortable.

Cheers all, thanks for being patient!

The relay (R10) is located in the engine bay fuse box, drivers side. The R10 relay is the big black one closest to the windscreen. You remove the relay and you will see four holes where the relay was plugged in. Two will be for the relay coil and the other two, the ones you want, will be for the relay contacts.

To perform the power bleed the "foot" operator shorts out the two sockets (with any wire that will fit the hole) where the contacts are. This causes the ABS pump motor to run. The other operator opens the bleed nipple on each brake in turn as per the manual bleed procedure.

So the procedure is you would open a bleed nipple then short out the ABS pump contact. Let it run for about 60 seconds. Close the nipple and stop the pump. Repeat for the other three wheels.

Cheers
Ron

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