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Thread: Any hints & tips when changing Td5 thermostat and coolant hoses?

  1. #1
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    Question Any hints & tips when changing Td5 thermostat and coolant hoses?

    Evening all. I have embarked on another Td5 coolant hose replacement 'adventure'....and I'd like to access the collective wisdom of Discovery owners.

    The vehicle is a 1999 Td5 Discovery 2 Auto.

    I had some coolant leaking from the (surprise, surprise...) LR spring clips that were on the 3 hoses that come off the thermostat (top one runs between radiator and top of thermostat and the bottom 2 go to the metal coolant rail). My guess is that these were quite old hoses given that they still had spring clips on and the previous owner appears to have replaced most of the other ones as work has been done and hoses have been replaced.

    One picture shows the access from the underside of the vehicle. The coolant rail and (auto transmission cooler?) pipes are very much in the way and prevent me from getting my hands into the space above the coolant rail. The drain screw is visible on the LHS edge of the photo. And yes, all that black paint is rustproofing - the bloke that did it went a bit overboard.

    I thought I'd be a clever bugger and put the new hoses and clamps onto the thermostat (other picture) and then lower it in from the top and then go underneath and pull the new hoses onto the ends of the coolant rail. And this would mean that I'm only having to do up 3 hose clamps in what is a really unpleasant place to be doing anything with a screwdriver or small socket.

    Yeah right. There is no way I can get my hands in there to do this. So I removed the bottom hoses off the thermostat and they went onto the coolant rail easily. Now i just need to try and get the remaining hose clamps on.

    Has anyone got any suggestions on how to make this task any easier?
    What worked for you?

    Separate but related issue: does anyone else have any broken mounting points on their coolant rail? On mine the 2 outside ones are broken. AFAIK this is not causing any problems - apart from putting more stresses on the 1 remaining mounting point.

    I see nothing but big $$$ if I ask a dealer or independent to replace the coolant rail (IIRC it's approx $600 for the rail alone and the labour costs would be substantial).


    Has anyone successfully done a fix-up job on their coolant rail mounts and can offer me any ideas?


    Thanks for your help folks.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    I have a remote hose clamp removal tool which I use to death. I bought this from Bursons for $80 about 2 years ago and for myself this was an excellent investment. The one I have is a Torledo brand.

    TOOLS - PLIERS - 301172 - RKS Sales

    This will allow you to the job a lot easier. Another hint is to put a smear of vaseline on the inside of the hose before installing.

    Also, use stainless worm drive clamps when you reinstall.

    Erich

  3. #3
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    Thanks Erich. I'll give the Vaseline trick a go later tonight. I'll be adding those pliers to the Christmas wish list too. Thanks again.

  4. #4
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    Hold your tongue right and grow a skinny third arm that is double jointed in a few places.

    Then it will be a sinch.

    Oh and watch out for those jesus clips, will feel like you've been shot if you let one escape from the pliers.

    Cheers, Dave

  5. #5
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    I heated them up with a hair dryer to soften them. I also replaced all Jesus clips with slotted bolthead hose clamps.

    Had to buy the wife a new hairdrier after that though....

  6. #6
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    Did the same job myself, I used stainless hose clamps as well- just make sure you check them for tightness again after say 500 - 1000k, and keep an eye on them regularly. good luck- i found it a tough job, speaking to a LR mechanic afterwards he mentioned he uses a special tool, probably like the one Bundalene has.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by davrac View Post
    Hold your tongue right and grow a skinny third arm that is double jointed in a few places.

    Then it will be a sinch.

    Oh and watch out for those jesus clips, will feel like you've been shot if you let one escape from the pliers.

    Cheers, Dave
    Yeah, I know what you mean about the quadruple-jointed 3rd arm required. Having the coolant rail able to move (because the mount on the driver side is broken) means that it's even more tricky to push down on the rail ends from above.

    So the coolant rail is now being stabilised with the 5th best invention known to man - cable ties!

    I have been tossing all the spring clip/jesus clips as I've replaced hoses. I like the idea behind the Constant Torque clamps but have not bought any yet as they are pricey. I'm using the stainless worm drive ones. Tridon brand IIRC.

    Quote Originally Posted by stallie View Post
    I heated them up with a hair dryer to soften them. I also replaced all Jesus clips with slotted bolthead hose clamps.

    Had to buy the wife a new hairdrier after that though....
    Cheers for the tip re hairdrier. My wife doesn't own a hairdrier believe it or not...

    This reminds me of the time I used our new (but cheap) vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust from cutting masonite off the wooden floor in the kitchen. I can report with scientific proof that masonite dust can cause vacuum cleaner motors to overheat. And if you let them overheat long enough (ie. until the job is finished), the white smoke inside a vacuum that makes it work leaks out and then it doesn't go anymore...

    The 'scientific proof' I refer to above is the receipt for a new vacuum. Hmmm. I think though that my wife was less impressed with the fact that the replacement vacuum was a nice Stihl wet/dry one. She said I could "buy a decent one but don't get a Dyson as they cost too much". She doesn't shop at my our Stihl shop though does she eh?

    Quote Originally Posted by beanie_205 View Post
    Did the same job myself, I used stainless hose clamps as well- just make sure you check them for tightness again after say 500 - 1000k, and keep an eye on them regularly. good luck- i found it a tough job, speaking to a LR mechanic afterwards he mentioned he uses a special tool, probably like the one Bundalene has.
    Thanks Beanie. I'm going to try and make each of the clamps' adjusters accessible for the follow up tighten.

    I made sure that the thermostat was working too as there is no way I want to do this task again for a fair while. I'd rather fix the other coolant leak than buggerise around with the thermostat again TBH.

    Stay tuned for my next coolant hose thread.

  8. #8
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    changing hoses

    Don`t use vaseline or any other petroleum based lubricant for easing on hoses it will degrade them.Go to your local chemist and get a tube of KY Gell.
    Water based no problems.

    Trev.

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    Thumbs up Vaseline vs something else

    Quote Originally Posted by trev View Post
    Don`t use vaseline or any other petroleum based lubricant for easing on hoses it will degrade them.Go to your local chemist and get a tube of KY Gell.
    Water based no problems.

    Trev.
    Thanks for that Trev. I hadn't thought it would be a problem so I used a small amount today and it worked amazingly well. The job is complete and the clamps just need a tighten up after a decent drive.

    I've since had a look at alternatives to Vaseline and some people recommend straight dishwashing liquid.

    Being a LR Td5 I am sure that there will be more hoses to test this out on.

  10. #10
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    Perhaps a fix...

    I'd have thought that if you remove the coolant pipe (steel one), and find a friendly welder (small engineering shop), new tags could be tig ed to the pipe in the correct positions and the pipe replaced.

    Perhaps explore?? Might be a transaction involving cans rather than dollars!

    Cheers

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

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