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Thread: the dreaded back door

  1. #1
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    the dreaded back door

    ok so my rear door has always worked fine but last week as i was giving the car a wash and putting the inner lining back on the rear door i did a couple of things.. one i cleaned all the gunk out of the latch that locks the door to the car and i found a strange black plug sitting unplugged next to the socket that it should have been plugged into so i went and plugged it in against my better judgement.. whats the worst that could happen?

    its now completely locked and will not budge wont open from inside or out. tried popping the badge and spamming with wd40 also did the same on the inside still no good ive tried kicking it and screaming too that didn't help?

    any other strategies?

  2. #2
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    Crowbar?
    D4 SDV6, a blank canvas

  3. #3
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    Mine did this the other week. I had just given the lock a bit of a clean and spray of WD40 and a week later the door would not open from either side. The child lock was locked in the correct position so not that.

    First try locking and unlocking to see if it releases. Then push the door at the same time to see if it help it along.

    The way I got the door open was to use a Rubber Mallet and gave a good hit on the outside corner of the Black door handle housing closest the latch. The lock then released. I closed it again and was still not opening so did the same and worked. I think the latch was gummed up and not letting it spring open.

    I sprayed degreaser all in and around the latch then gave a good flush out with water. Had the door card off so flushed it out of the door as well. I then sprayed the latch with motor bike chain lube as it drys and does not collect dust. So far it's been good.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  4. #4
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    From past experience if the "child proof" is just a bit out of the "off" position, damn thing won't open from inside or outside. As I recall it was a door card off and fiddle till it released. Then found corrosion in the child proof latch.

    Has the"latch pull" from the outside handle had the mod done so as to allow extra handle movement? Could try having a couple of people push on the door at the same time as you pull the handle.

    All my door problems went away when I took the wheel weight off the door and put it onto the (a steel) bumper.

    Cheers

    RF

  5. #5
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    NEVER EVER use WD40 or any other liquid lubricant on locks or mechanisms!

    Use graphite or some other dry lube. This is from a mate who is a locksmith, he makes plenty of money opening doors on vehicles where WD40 or similar has been used.
    D4 SDV6, a blank canvas

  6. #6
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    To be completely safe don't clean the car....?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by wardy1 View Post
    NEVER EVER use WD40 or any other liquid lubricant on locks or mechanisms!

    Use graphite or some other dry lube. This is from a mate who is a locksmith, he makes plenty of money opening doors on vehicles where WD40 or similar has been used.
    Wardy is right WD40 wrong flr thi job. WD40 is "not" a Lubricant. It's a "Water Displacement agent" hence WD.... Water Displacement.. It will not lubricate but just drive out water, grease and "lubricants"...

  8. #8
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    I was not using it as a lubricant, I was using it to flush out the dirt and was going to lube afterwards. Degreaser ended up doing a better job as it all looked shiny and new afterwards.
    Cheers, David.
    My Land Rover has made me a better Mechanic........
    D2 TD5 Manual, CDL, Detroit Rear, Truetac Front, 2" OME lift, 32" MT Tyres, ARB Bull Bar, Winch, TJM Roof Rack, Driving Lights, Dual Batteries, ARB Side Steps, Rear Draws, Uhf.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landover View Post
    I was not using it as a lubricant, I was using it to flush out the dirt and was going to lube afterwards. Degreaser ended up doing a better job as it all looked shiny and new afterwards.
    SCA do a $2 can of degreasant which is the best I have ever used. I used to use GUNK from the UK great but expensive. This 2 buck product is superb.

    I use WD on electrical connectors and around the suspension arms. Anywhere else degreasant.

  10. #10
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    What worked for me was cracking the rear door trim around the latch and manually pulling/pushing on the wire rod latch activator mechanism.

    This opened the latch.

    A good clean and lube as descibed above works for a while but will eventually it will fail again (just when you dont need it!). I used INOX lube after a clean, its reccomended by Bensons locksmiths.

    just buy a new Genuine latch. will work for at least as long as the first one.

    then dust proof your door seal as good as possible.

    good luck

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