Thread: Discovery Door pillar Tweeters

The power is not as relevant to the tweeters as it is to the main drivers because the speaker cone moves such a minimal amount. Added to this, the tweeter will have a capacitor in line which will cut out the lower frequencies that require more power to produce.

The only consideration really is the quality of sound you want. In short you can have harder or harsher tweeters which produce a very zingy treble sound, or softer with less edge to the sound tweeters. What ever rows your boat, but if you like the sound you have, leave them in.

cheers
Nick

I've replaced the original LR system in mine with a new head unit, new 10 disc stacker, new and larger speakers in the front doors (disconnected the rear door speakers), amp under the passenger's seat and 10" sub in a box in the back replacing the plastic "bin" on the left.

All components are Sony and "reasonable" but certainly not high end quality, and was professionally installed (too fiddly for me). The original LR tweeters are hooked up (I was given the option of replacing them with Sony, but chose not to, as those offered would have had to be mounted somewhere else). Not that my ears are that discerning any more, but the LR tweeters are definitely working, and they sound OK to me. Have had no problem with them handling the power of the new system (which is considerably more than original), though I agree with Hastykiwi's comment that power is less of an issue with tweeters than with lower range speakers.

The power is not as relevant to the tweeters as it is to the main drivers because the speaker cone moves such a minimal amount. Added to this, the tweeter will have a capacitor in line which will cut out the lower frequencies that require more power to produce.

The only consideration really is the quality of sound you want. In short you can have harder or harsher tweeters which produce a very zingy treble sound, or softer with less edge to the sound tweeters. What ever rows your boat, but if you like the sound you have, leave them in.

cheers
Nick

I put in A pillar tweeters in my D2.
read this, may help with any decisions.
Since the post i have put in an Alpine head unit (no cd, just ipod & tuner), replaced all speakers & put in a 12" Rockford Fosgate Sub & amp. Sounds awsome!!
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...-tweeters.html

I think I'll try them in conjunction with my front amp and see what they sound like & also how long they'll last.
I'm also fitting Rockford Fosgate Amps and speakers...400watts per channel into the front door 6.5" 2 way Components.
400 watts each into the rear 6.5" dual cones and 800 watts @ 4ohms into a pair of 12" Subs.
Finding space for these three amps is proving to be a problem...I have three Denon amps at present but they don't take up as much room because I have them stacked vertically.

It will interesting to see how the tweeters hold up to the abuse. I still have the RF Component tweeters as back ups should the Standard Rover ones fail.

I have blown two sets of Infinity tweeters...probably because I have the input levels turned up too high.
I agree with what Nick is saying about the power input, but there comes a cross over point where the tweeters simply arn't designed to handle 'X' amount of power. Hence I have the much higher power rated Rockford units now.
If the Rover tweeters fail then I'll put the RF units in.

Thx again.

S.

Dont forget power is measured with ohms also and you have peak power and rms ...crossover points are critical for a good sound stage and the fact that the tweeters are close to the mids in a disco helps with staging therefore sound quality think of a tweeter being 16ohm stable hence the reason power is less of an issue compared to range of frequency....hope this helps and not hinders

i have the originaly tweeters...in fact I only have one its not that noticable