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Thread: Wiring for Spotlight switch on TD5 Defender

  1. #1
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    Wiring for Spotlight switch on TD5 Defender

    i have been meaning to put my spotlights on a switch on the dash of DEFENDER td5 2002. (New style centre switches)
    luckily the relay and wiring is already there but i cant find the wiring diagram for the switch. its essentially the same as the fog lights in the loom. picture below. there r four wires coming from the back of the switch. numbered:
    1red with yellow stripe
    2red with brown stripe
    3 blank
    4black
    5 red with yellow stripe(thicker gauge than the others)

    i plugged the switch into the fogs to test it worked and is a bit odd that push on , then push the switch again it stays on, push a third time it stays on then fourth time it switches off ?
    the multimeter says that wire (on fog light harness) 1 is positive and 5 is neg but doesn't seem to work still.
    i was hoping to piggyback the pos and neg that switches the ambient light for night onto the fog light wiring as there doesn't seem to be any extras for this , then use the two wires from the spotlight relay to the other.

    ok so my question is, does anybody know how this switch should actually be wired?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    The switch is negative switching - the pins for the switch:

    1 = earth switched
    2 = +ve illumination (on with sidelights)
    3 = earth
    4 = earth (matches pin 3)
    5 = +ve control light (small orange led, feed from powered device)

    When the button is pressed, it joins (1) & (4) and closes a circuit with 5

    This post shows how I wired it up with a (Traxide) relay.

  3. #3
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    I've just been through this and I think that Willie has set out the Rear Fog Light Switch pin identifications. The switch in your photo is a Driving Lights switch.

    Try these :-

    Pin 1 = 12V+ power in
    Pin 2 = Switch illumination (on with parking lights)
    Pin 3 = Earth for switch illumination and telltale
    Pin 4 = Switched power out (to driving lights relay)
    Pin 5 = 12V+ supply for telltale (from the driving lights when on)


    The arrangement with Pin 5 seems odd until you take into account that driving lights must only come on with high beams. So the telltale only lights up when both the Driving Lights switch has been pressed AND the high beams are on.

    Dingocroft in the UK sell the connector for the rear of the switch. Part No. ZZPLUG01.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  4. #4
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    Thanks Mellow,
    i have got the switch working on the four pin wiring loom that came with the switch
    1= switch (+) in
    2= illumination (+)
    3= blank
    4 = switch (-) out
    5 = not plugged in (not sure whereto )

    but no orange telltale light.


    i can see that the orange light works and comes on when plugged into the positive in wire, however is seems to work opposite how i need it. as the light comes on when the switch is off.
    i have it plugged in on the 3 wires (1,2 and 4,) just no telltale.
    any thoughts on how to get the orange light working would be appreciated before i put the dash back together
    thanks

    Jake

  5. #5
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    G'Day Jake,

    I put in four switches into my panel but (now I think about it) I modified the internals of two of them as they started life as heated seat switches. [The faceplates of these switches come off and can be swapped.]

    I know I've got the detail of how I modified them somewhere - I'll chase it up and post it.

    In the meantime, all of these switches require the middle pin (pin 3) to be earthed. So if you mean by "blank" that you've left pin 3 without a connection then I suggest you earth it.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  6. #6
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    yeah i did initially see that pin 3 was earth but thought that it didnt need to be earthed seeing as the the switch out was earthed and a larger gauge wire. also that my plug in the back doesnt have a female part for pin 3. have to make something up i guess.

    i find it a bit strange the wiring here as when i plugged this switch into the fog lights which also only has 4 pins, it all worked including the tell tale, which makes me wonder why the driving lights dont have the orange light working . i tried all sorts of combinations to get the orange light but couldnt get it.
    if u find out a solution i 'd love to know
    Cheers
    J

  7. #7
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    For what it's worth the Heated Seat Switch pin layout is as follows :-

    Pin 1 = 12V+ power in
    Pin 2 = Switch illumination (on with parking lights)
    Pin 3 = Earth for switch illumination and telltale
    Pin 4 = Switched power out (to heated seat relay)
    Pin 5 = Blank

    It may be that your switch is set up this way.

    Incidentally, I spent ages trying to work out with a multimeter how the switches worked and failed miserably. It was only when I found the layouts on one of the UK LR blogs that I got it all sorted.

    An afterthought, just in case you're not aware. Fog lights are wired differently to driving lights. By law (at least in NSW) the wiring for fog lights must be independent of the wiring for headlights. So, wired correctly, it's possible to have both your headlights and your fog lights operating at the one time. However with driving lights, they must be wired so that they can only come on with your high beams.

    With the Defender's rear fog light, the wiring is set up to so that the switch sends a signal to the ECU and the ECU turns the rear fog light on only when the parking lights are on and the ignition is on. If the ignition is turned off, and then turned on again the rear fog light switch needs to be pressed again before the rear fog light will come on with the parking lights.
    Last edited by Mellow Yellow; 9th March 2011 at 06:02 AM. Reason: Additional comment
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  8. #8
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    yeah i did initially see that pin 3 was earth but thought that it didnt need to be earthed seeing as the the switch out was earthed and a larger gauge wire. also that my plug in the back doesnt have a female part for pin 3. have to make something up i guess.

    i find it a bit strange the wiring here as when i plugged this switch into the fog lights which also only has 4 pins, it all worked including the tell tale, which makes me wonder why the driving lights dont have the orange light working . i tried all sorts of combinations to get the orange light but couldnt get it.
    if u find out a solution i 'd love to know
    Cheers
    J

  9. #9
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    Here's the details on how to get the driving lights switch to work:-

    Defender2 - View topic - Switch fascia

    I used this to figure out my switches.
    Mellow Yellow

    No matter what the problem - there's a solution. You've just got to find it.

    2013 Discovery 4 TDV6 3.0
    2015 Defender 90 - The TARDIS (Gone)
    2003 Defender 110 - The Yellow Peril (Gone but remembered fondly)
    2001 Discovery II TD5 (Gone)
    1986 County V8 (Gone)

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
    I've just been through this and I think that Willie has set out the Rear Fog Light Switch pin identifications. The switch in your photo is a Driving Lights switch.
    My switch is YUG000540LNF; a latching switch with a headlight symbol and the number 2. I know you can swap the covers around, but the fog light switch is a momentary switch not a latching one.

    I can only tell you what worked for me. When I press the switch, with high beam on, I get spotties and an indicator LED.

    To get the LED to light up when on, I used it as a negative switch - that is the relay has power, and already has switch provided by High Beam (when on), then with (1) which connected to the earth, so when pressed, the relay is earthed and then functions (relay 'switch' is still the trigger from the high beam). (5) lights up when the spotties are powered on ...

    I actually used the link that mello yello posted to work it out, which has this diagram, which explains the inner workings of the switch.



    I did also go through a lot of fuses, and a switch, by trial and error ... and I managed to blow the LED by indiscriminate application of current .... which caused a bit of frustration until I worked out the LED was never going to light up .... you can probably work out from the diagram where not to hook up power and earth ....

    Good luck.

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