Thread: LT95 for 101

Hi Peter
A standard classic range rover transmission should fit, but the transfercase high range ratio will be different and most likely for the better as gearing up the 101 is good for highway work.
I wouldnt pull the transmission.
Get some leaf spring caster correction wedges to fit under the rear springs.
I have some on my 101 which allows you to change the rear tail shaft uni joint angles.
may be your rear springs have settled abit or the transmission alignment is out a little bit.
Sounds like you are getting tail shaft rumble in the rear tail shaft.
Under load the tailshaft finds it hard to break free abit and rumble.
on the float it will rumble and under hard engine breaking or deceleration load and the rumble will be reduced.
I found to run speedi seleeves on all the diff and transfercase drive flanges whether they need it or not for wear as it tightens the seal a bit more and reduces the chances of leaks.
I also loctite the diff and transfercase flange splines as to reduce possible free. play.........even though it means using a puller to disassemble at a later date.
After the long run back from stockton in 40 degree heat cruising at 100 kph there was no leaks from the diff or transmission drive flange seals.....the speedi seleeves help.

Peter,

Up until the bit where you said the noise is still there with the front shaft removed I would have said it sounded exactly like front driveshaft rumble. I agree with Ron that if may be the rear shaft. Take it out and go for a drive with your new front one in and see if you still have the same.

If it is still there I would have a look at the front bearing in the tfr case in front of the CDL - if you old front shaft had been shaking a lot then the front bearing may have taken a hit.

As far as the gearbox is concerned - yes the bell housing is shorter but the input shaft is also shorter so it is not just a matter of just dropping in a RR gerabox. I believe that there are also some other minor internal differences that do not impact the use of the box.

The 101s are rare enought to warrant keeping the original box and transfer case (unique 101 numbers) so I would exhaust other option before gearbox replacement.

Garry

The noise was there when I first drove it home and I did feel the infamous front shaft rumble along the highway but only over 85K and it was as I had read it described. At the time I was more worried about getting the sick motor home in one piece.

It is sitting at exactly the same height with the new springs. The diff has new bearings fitted when the locker was fitted. I had the tail shaft fitted with new uni's and balanced and the noise is the same as always. Take the load off with any amount of acceleration and all is quiet.

The problem has to be in the box, so I will keep searching. Might try to find a cheapy box to learn on.

speedi seleeves on all the diff and transfercase drive flanges

Ron, pardon my ignorance but I am not sure what speedi sleeves are. Please explain?

Peter

Speedi sleeves are a stainless steel surface which is lightly press fitted over a worn surface on a shaft where a oil seal lip runs.
It is a cheap and quick way to repair worn surfaces on shafts for seals as it saves replacement of the shaft, or machining and the press fit of a one off sleeve of much greater thickness at great cost.
A speedi sleeve is only a few thou thick and is available at any bearing supplier, all you have to do is give them a sample or exact measurements.
I tend to fit them sometimes on shafts which are OK for no other reason than that they make a existing seal a little bit tighter on the shaft and seal better.
This tighter sealing tends to make the seal work better if there may be any run out or problems with the shaft the seal is running on.
It will cost about $30 dollars per drive flange.
They are simple to install at home with a tool provided and a hammer.
I have the part number you require some where if you want to buy one.

Peter.
You have not done many miles in your 101.
I wouldnt pull out the gearbox yet.
It still seems you have the tail shaft rumbles and is a standard factory problem which causes no major prroblems other than it seems there is some thing wrong when there is not.
If you have your double ended double cardon tail shaft for the front, is there way of fitting it to the rear in full or one end of it to test the effects.
I fear you may be pulling out the transmission of your 101 for no reason.
All 101s make a noise and it sounds like if it is terminal to people who do not know the vehicle well.
the fact you are telling us it is speed related and throttle drive load on and off related backs this up.
On my 101 there is a small vib at 100 kph or more too on the float too.
My 101 with the castor correction wedges in the rear , if fitted the wrong way around can cause the rear tailshaft to make a noise too.
Peter you have just refitted the motor and transmission and new springs and there are many things drive line angle wise which may have changed slightly.
The high UJ working angles make the drive line on the 101 a bit touchy at the best of times.

A gearbox or transfercase bearing will usually happen in a certain gear or just be a constant noise with load.
Wear in the transfercase is usually indicated by it jumping out of gear underload.
Diff pinion bearing noise will be constant or if there is enough float which can be detected by hand (ie loose pinion nut ) the crown wheel will suck in the pinion on the overdrive going down a hill and make a noise.

I have to agree with Ron on this one - sounds exactly like 101 driveshaft noise - symptoms fit it to a tee.

Garry

hi peter
nice to have talk with you enjoued your photos done great job
i agree with ron and garry sounds like drive shaft noise mine use to do it
i found if you backed off on throttle a little bit went away on mine
just try your for a while before takeing out gear box
i might try and come and see you see if i can help you
cheers cooee