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I've been thinking some more about these hayman reese ones. Wouldn't the dealer fit LR badged bars be made by Hayman Reese anyway seeing they are unique to Aus?
As for the electrics, my only concern is the different resistance if you tap into the current wiring may play havic with the electrics. I'm not concerned about the parking sensors or the pretty light on the dash(although, the sensors will get annoying) Anyone got one yet or do I have to be the Guinnea Pig
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![]() Asked for a supply price only, $400, things were looking up. ![]() A few hours, ok days, research on the internet revealed that I needed the LR wiring kit, Part # LR003106. Found this at lrdirect.com for $364(AUD) delivered, a bit exxy but worth it for the piece of mind. The cheapest Genuine au stock I found was $500. The towbar install was pretty straight forward and the instructions provided were ok, but not great. This did involve removing the rear bumper, tow hook, crash beam and bolting it up with 4 bolts, replace tow hook, replace crash beam them bumper, swear for 20 minutes trying to get the stupid mud flap bolt back in. Don't forget to cut the little bit out of the bumper, I used a hacksaw and stanley knife.The wiring kit had pretty pictures and no words, DON'T FORGET TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU START!! I didn't... ![]() You need to install 3 fuses in the rear fuse box, remove the side trim panel, no instructions on how to do this, but it is just held in by clips. Bolt up the earth wire to the same point as the parking sensor control box, stick the wiring module to the side just behind the strut(all in the pictures ).Connect the plug to the plug that is already installed on the floor and push out the bung and feed all the cables through. Tie them all up with the zip ties supplied. I ditched the twin large 7 pin round plugs that are supplied and installed a 7 pin flat to au wiring standards. If I had my time again I would install a 12 pin just so you have somewhere to connect all the wires, as it was I wrapped them all up and tucked and tied the unused wires behind the bumper. There is a wiring legend in the install manual. So off I went to the LR dealer to get the module programmed in, also had to get the heater recall done so it was timed well. When I picked the car up they informed me that the couldn't talk to the module as it wasn't genuine(same manufacturer, just no LR sticker) nothing they can do etc etc. ![]() Well, as it turns out. Just finished re wiring the trailer and hooked it upto test and take round the back and Guess what..... IT WORKS! ![]() All the lights work fine and the parking sensors are disabled when the trailer is connected. Still not sure what the problem was with the programming, however some idiot didn't disconnect the battery when the plugged the kit in with bare wires everywhere. I'm going to give them a call tomorrow to see exactly what the issue was.So all up, towbar for your FL2 for $764. Gotta be happy with that.
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to nosliwedaw For This Useful Post: | ||
djhampson (25th March 2009), oldwhippet (8th March 2010) | ||
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Hi nosliwedaw
Have you had any issues with your aftermarket towbar? I am looking at getting the hayman reese bar put on too and will also get the LR wiring harness put on. In the end it sounds like yours works just like the factory product - is that right? Also just to confirm, did you need to get LR to programme the wiring module in the end? It seems that you can save a bit of money this way. Thanks |
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He also removed the white Euro socket. I couldn't figure anything else to do with it.
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Third time lucky????
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| The Following User Says Thank You to reklaw47 For This Useful Post: | ||
oldwhippet (9th March 2010) | ||
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Thanks, that looks good. I'm going to go ahead with the HR bar and have ordered the wiring kit from overseas ($340 or so delivered). The towbar installers said they could wire it up. I'll let you know how it works out.
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oldwhippet,
Yep, it works just like the factory job but has the standard size 50mm receiver. Works just like expected towing, but I am pretty sure it rattles less with the anti-rattle screw not tightened up .As for the programming, they confirmed that they could NOT communicate with the box and could not do the programming. Despite this it works as it should with the pretty light on the dash and the reversing sensors disabled..... I guess the best way to go here is give it a try and take it in to be programmed if it doesn't work. Good luck. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to nosliwedaw For This Useful Post: | ||
oldwhippet (15th March 2010) | ||
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