Ok - what about "less gay" then

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REMLR 243

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1998 Freelander XEDI
1977 FC 101
1957 Series 1 88" (Baby)
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster

Classic!

Now I'm getting a little concerned, why would my poor little Freebie be unhappy (less gay)?

Of course, all 'serious' 4WD's have atleast 2" lift. The little freebie can't be both 'gay' and 'serious' now can he???

hahahaha

Cheers!

OK time for an update now that the wheel alignment has been checked.
Firstly let me correct my earlier post about getting as much 'positive' camber as I could when assembling the suspension.
I did mean 'negative' camber that is the bottom of the wheel being further out than the top of the wheel.

This is the factory alignment and camber spec for the Freelander.


The Camber spec front and rear is pretty neutral, 0.25 degrees negative for the front and 0.5 degrees for the rear. Having adjusted the front camber pins to maximum negative camber on assembly and pushing all the clearance on the rear upright bolts the camber was within factory spec.
Front camber pretty much spot on, we settled on 0.4 degrees negative for an initial setting and will see how that goes for a few weeks.
The rear is reduced to about 0.1 degrees, still within spec but pretty neutral, will decide in a few weeks if camber pins should be fitted to the rear and some more camber cranked in.

Front was toeing out by 32mm due to the increased angle on the steering arms from the lift, suggest screwing these out by about 8-10mm each during assembly to bring them back closer to the mark. The suspension guy I used for the alignment suggested pulling the toe out back to 0mm based on the camber and lift. That is still within factory spec and will see how that goes.

So it is all back together, wheels are aligned, camber checked; time to try it all out off road

So did you use the Monroe "magic camber" pins??

Yep that is the ones, part number is at home and I will add this later.

They worked for you then I assume.

After I fitted the kit, I took the car to get the camber sorted (wasn't confident to do that myself), and was told that they could not get the pins to do anything useful. They set up the camber to be within what they felt was acceptable - when you look at the car it appears to be excessive, but after 20,000k with it set up like that there is only minimal uneven tyre wear. I would prefer to get it spot on though!

Do you have the 50mm Bearmach kit fitted then?

If so how did you go with the clearance and manufacturing/quality issues?

Mine has enough adjustment to get back into factory spec, but only just really so it wouldn't surprise me that normal manufacturing tolerances might mean you cant get back into spec.
I had a look at the uprights and you could remove some excess material to allow greater adjustment back onto the strut if you really need to.

Yes I do have the kit, but I think that my engineering standards are somewhat lower than yours - if I said that I checked the tolerences on the manufacturing before I fitted it, I would be lying.

Did have to cut away a bit of material, but not too much. At first I thought that the fuel lines would be in danger of being fouled, but with everything bolted back together it was not an issue - there is plenty clearance even at full drop

Speaking of clearance - you can now drive places you couldn't before.

Are you in Sydney by any chance - who did you get to do your alignment?