Wouldn't know for a TD4, my guess is that although the exhaust will be different it will be similar in relationship to clearance from the anti-roll bar.
Have a look at the clearance with all wheel on the ground, compare with clearance with the vehicle jacked so that both front wheels are off the ground at full extension.
Not much clearance left?
Then any lift will probably make the two come into contact and the links will need shortening.


As to the question on timing belts: The V6 has 3 camshaft drive belts. 1 long belt to drive the inlet cams, then 2 short belts to drive the exhaust cams (as I understand it).

I had the thought today that maybe a big stud-extender type thing could be fitted on the tie-rod end, to lift the steering rods up by the same amount that the strut is spaced down. That should negate the clearance issues there, just need to engineer it strong enough that flex is acceptable, or negligible.

Next problem: CV joints reaching the limit of their usefulness, replace with Thompson couplings - Thompson Couplings Ltd
I fully realise this would be no trivial task, but I'm interested enough to make some very tentative enquiries...
Apparently the units themselves are actually cheaper to make than the standard Rzeppa joint in normal CV's, need to figure out the fit which is the tricky part.
*WARNING* this is all probably a good way to void your warranty and/or insurance cover!

what was the other bit? drop-links.
cut 'em in half with an axe, stick em back shorter with duct tape.
(well no, but if you got the other stuff done first these would be a mere flea-bite, as the saying goes...)

It's not going to happen tomorrow, and won't be accomplished with pocket change, but a man can dream, can't he?

Hi Mockery.

Is it too late to ask you to measure the spacers? I'd like to make mines myself, in machine shop. Don't think $350 is a decent price for those. And I'd go with 30mm lift.

Which spacers?

If you are talking about the spacers that lift the suspension, then a 30mm spacer will give you close enough to 30mm lift.

Making them yourself you will need to drop out 1 front and 1 rear strut to work out the spacer dimensions for diameter, studs and clearances. You will also need some camber adjusting pins for the front and probably longer brake lines. Suspect at 30mm you still need to cut away some metal to clear the steering arms. You might get away with the swaybar clearance.

Or just buy my Freebie which is completely sorted and due to some recent hail damage just been partially resprayed and has a new bonnet.

The missing update

I did end up shortening the drop links so that the anti-roll bar no longer touched the exhaust. Sorry I don't recall how much I shortened them, it was perhaps 20-25mm.

Cut, sleeved, welded, cleaned up, painted, fitted, never an issue.
Note: You need to be very careful when welding or you will burn the plastic ends out of the links. I used sleeves with holes in them and welded up the holes very slowly with many halts to cool off.

Sold during 2010.
FYI for the RWC I had to refit the original brake hoses, modified the brackets a bit so the unions were not stressed.