EDIT: I should mention this kit is being fitted to a 2002 V6 5 door.

Have begun fitting the long neglected 50mm Bearmach lift kit, not in any hurry so probably take at least a few days to complete.
Only have one strut back in so far but have learnt a few things along the way.

Here are a few images and details of what comes with the Bearmach FL1 50mm strut lift kit.

Fabricated steel (Zinc plated) strut spacers that use 3mm for the horizontal plates and 5mm for the vertical (compression) load bearing plates. So far I have found these are not that well finished (weld spatter around the mounting faces needed filing/grinding) and inconsistent in height. Looks like I might need to face one or two off on the lathe to get the vertical plates nice and flat on the mating surfaces.


The stud extensions that take the vertical (extension) loads. These are actually too long for the spacers (by 0.3-0.6mm) and vary in length by up to 0.3mm, so require a little lathe time to shorten so that the spacer takes the compression load rather than the stud.


A Goodrich BA2210 brake line kit, haven't touched this yet.


A Monroe camber pin kit for the front end, not included apparently but recommended. Appears you can't get full adjustment range as the back of the upright fouls the strut, will check the static camber once all back together and see if this is an issue. If it is then the front struts will need to come out and see if some material can be removed from the uprights.


The instructions are a bit simple and miss a few items such as having to remove the fuse box and coolant expansion bottle to access the strut fixings (nuts). The steering arms (described as tie rods) foul the standard cut outs and the instructions suggest 'if' they foul (no way they won't) some gentle bending may be required. A bit understated, I found it necessary to cut out rather than bend the metal and cut away some of the plastic lining panel, grinder, saw and file rather than gentle bending.
A couple of hoses may also need to be rerouted and a heat shield needs a gentle adjustment, as I do a bit more I will update and post further details.

I am surprised that for such a 'Brand Name' how much extra work is required to make it actually fit - eg lathe work on the spacers and studs - not good for a brand name - should fit first time around.

Garry

__________________
REMLR 243

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1998 Freelander XEDI
1977 FC 101
1957 Series 1 88" (Baby)
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster

OK the front wheels have found their way back onto the hubs so it is time for an update. I have also written to Bearmach outlining a few issues and requested their response, which will be posted here.

Here is a (dark - sorry) image showing the daylight between the spacer and the strut if you leave the spacer and studs as they are delivered.


The biggest issue is certainly the fact that lifting the suspension by 50mm means you restrict your steering lock and risk ripping out the fuel lines between the engine and fuel tank. I have already cut away a fair bit of the metal here and yet as you can see, bad news on left lock with the left wheel unloaded.


The cutouts for the steering arms need to be opened right up (not just bent as per the instructions) and even will still foul with an unloaded wheel. A potentially bigger problem is that the L/H steering arm could crush the fuel leaving you at best stranded and at worst on fire. So rerouting the fuel lines is another task you will need to do. I have done this just on a temporary basis as being plastic I think the best bet is to replace them altogether (anyone done this?).
More images to give you a look & see.
Note that the tie rod is sitting on the box section even though the ball joint is still loose; this is what will happen with an unloaded corner.


Here is where the fuel lines used to be and have been moved to for the moment.



I have no doubt that people just bolt this stuff up and probably rarely notice the steering locking up, but it just shouldn't happen.

I haven't decided yet if I will modify the front end to allow full lock under all conditions or shorten the lift spacers all round to avoid the issue.

Will decide after fitting the rear spacers and checking out the wheel alignment, still have to clean up the cutouts and replace the fuel lines one I decide what I'm doing.

More to follow

Found a PDF document put together by someone in the UK.
Points out the clearance issue but the approach taken in this case is rough as guts based on the images. Looks like they just jumped in with a hacksaw and bashed the excess material over, but left the fuel lines in place.

Good list of tools and consumables required plus a few hints.

http://www.freelanderclub.org/images...liftkitfit.pdf

Going well SuperMono!

Its nice to see a report thats done well. I figure if your offering advice it needs to be decent. Yours is damn good!

EDIT: You can cut and relocate the fuel lines, I have. The hard inner of the lines is a PITA but fine to work with after a heat gun.

I'm not real keen on cutting the original lines due to some poor previous experience with plastic fuel lines (no fire, just dramas) so will look at full replacement at some point.

Back end is jacked up off the ground, so I better go and start

Well it's all back in one chunk and seems OK, will book in for wheel and camber adjustment next week.
Getting the rear lifted is a lot simpler as nothing steers and less stuff gets in the way.

Things to note.
Brake lines run through a bracket welded to the rear struts, so undo the unions and fit the new lines, but leave them assembled outside the bracket until you get the struts back in. Then fit the lines where they belong and bleed the brakes.

There is a small amount of play available with the bolts that fix the upright to the rear struts, I used a few levers and clamps to get as much positive camber as I could, looks OK but will confirm once the specialists measure it up.


When you lift the rear struts you also open up some gaps in the top mount that will let dust in, poke in some foam or insertion rubber before you do everything up tight (see images) unless you like dust.


All back together, drives OK, will update once the alignment is done.



Forgot to mention.
This is now a 49.6mm lift kit, I shortened all of the studs and plates to the same length.

The tyres now look too small - you need some decent high profile muddies to give it a more macho look

Garry

__________________
REMLR 243

2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1998 Freelander XEDI
1977 FC 101
1957 Series 1 88" (Baby)
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster

I don't think I could use macho and Freelander in the same sentence whilst keeping a straight face

As it happens I do have a set of 17 inch wheels that are currently shod with low profile road tyres.


As the Freebie has been retired as my daily drive (replaced by a Smart Roadster) I could plug something chunky in a 17inch under the wheel arches.
Getting the torque to turn them might be a problem though, unless that old supercharger in the shed could be screwed on...............

Nice report!

The v6 has waay less probs turning bigger tyres. I dont think my 1.8L would make it up a sloped suburban street with bigger tyres.
Also, the choice of tyres is HUGE once you pick some E'x' series Falcon steel wheels in 15". They give a wider track also.

Cheers!