watching with interest, as there are plenty of cheap FL1's out there!!!

LRH

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Disco 4 TDV6 Auto
RRC 300 TDI Auto
Disco 1 TD5 Auto Buggy
Triumph Bonneville SE

if the b6T motor from the tx3 is still in okay shape, you could very easily squeeze it into a ford festiva - the bell housing only needs a minor massage.
I went all out on mine when i was 17 (no non-turbo rules back then!) running a Toyota MR2 turbo & intercooler & 12psi boost. 132Kw in a car 250kg lighter than the TX3...

Hey 45tr0,
The TX3 was a KC, so B6 SOHC NA...& the engine was a total write-off...on a positve note however here's my new beast

'87 TX3 AWD Turbo - Hi-Flowed Turbo (running 17psi), Blitz DualSBC, Front Mount Intercooler, Pod Filter, cold air intake, BOV, Forged Pistons, 2.5" Dump pipe back exhaust, Hi-Flow Cat, Custom E/L gauges, Retrimed race seats, DEDICATED LPG CONVERSION HAPPENING NOW...www.profire.com.au

Anyway BACK ON TOPIC

Pulled all the hoses, intake manifold ect. off the block, the hoses to the transfer case and heater were stuck to the conections,so they had to be cut off...some serious oil in some of the finer hoses due to the head problems, will have to flush transfer case cooling system...Placed a jerry can in engine bay to catch fuel from key being turned to "on" position (In case I need to get the windows down for any reason) The fuel line fits the spout perfectly


While I'm doing all this I decided to fit a bigger battery, this is an old 12V truck battery from work, it still holds charge fine but they decided to upgrade on the truck. To fit it just required the outside edge of the mounting bracket be shaved down to keep it flat...


Also after attacking the front of the Mx6 with an angle grinder to get at the intercooler, because all the bumper mounting screws were inaccessible due to the accident...very good fun, almost theraputic


I discovered the factory intercooler won't easily fit anywhere on the freelander so I've ordered a slim frontmount from Just Jap it measures 140x650x65

I am planning on moving the aluminium bar behind the bumper up about 50mm and fitting the cooler in the colour-coded bottom vent to maximise airflow to the radiator and painted black to minimise visual impact...


I will be moving the bar in the next day or so, and the cooler arrives on Wednesday...so I'll update then...

Quick question...does anybody here know the input shaft diamater for the PG1 Gearbox?

Heres a tip:

Fit the intercooler above the alloy bar, and lift the PS cooler. Leave the bar in place. There is plenty of room, and moving the bar will **** off your engineer as it is supported by the crush cans. Plus where you show it will get mangled in the event of any nose/ground contact (and it does happen).

Cheers!

Good thought mate....will see how it fits this evening...I was only going to slide it up till the mounts were @ the top of the crush cans though...

Hello again...time for the next instalment in the saga The Intercooler

After trying what BeforeTheVision suggested I realised that there was not enough room to fit the cooler comfortably above the bar, also the airflow there is not great because the bumper only has the few small vents in that area. If I fitted the cooler there it would not allow the airflow to spread behind the bumper and would hamper the overall engine cooling, aside from only hitting a small area of the intercooler.

However, I did discover that I would have needed to move the bar up further than I had expected, which would have moved it off the crush cans, so I have cut a section out of the bottom of it to allow the cooler to sit inside. I will be sending it to an aluminium fabricator to have it re-enforced before final fitment and will post more pics of it then...as far as crushing the cooler offroad is concerned, it spends most of it's life on the road or in very light offroad conditions...If i ever convince my wife to go further off the beaten path (she doesn't like serious 4x4ing) then the first thing I will do is have a custom nudge bar made up specifically to protect the cooler...

Anyway thats getting a bit ahead of myself...

First thing, I used an angle-grinder to trim the top of the bottom inlet to allow the cooler to fit inside. I took about 30mm off the top edge, and tapered it down the sides to meet the bottom edge.
Then I used a Dremel to slowly grind out the sides further to allow room for the pipes.


Once this was done, I lay the ally bar into the bumper and sat the intercooler on top of it, then I traced around the cooler and cut the rebate out of the bar.

The Final Assembly
From the back:


Held in place:

Trial fitment on the car (Just sitting in place, held by the bumper at the moment):

There are still a couple of minor issues that need to be worked out...the bottom back of the cooler is just touching the AC compressor, so I'll need to swing it forward a few mm when I make the mounts...this means I will need to shave a bit more from the piping space in the sides of the bumper...The holes need to be cut to allow the piping back into the engine bay...and finally as mentioned at the begining of the post the ally bar needs to be re-enforced...

Having seen it on the car (And discussed it with my wife ), I am now planning on leaving the bar silver. I think it looks good like that...what do you guys reckon?

Looks good like that, however...

When I look at that, the first thing that pops into my mind is off-road damage and/or the fins getting clogged up with mud!

If you're only ever going to use it on-road, it's not a problem.

HTH

M

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'96 Camel 110 - Kalimantan CT11 - Video 1
'98 Camel Freelander - Sweedish selections
'98 TVR Cerbera 4.2 AJP -
'07 RRS TDV8 - The family car
'08 BMW 1200GS - The daily drive

Aim Low, Reach Your Goals, Avoid Disappointment.

Hey again,

This morning I borrowed an engine crane from a friends workshop , and with my mate back from the mines it was time to start work in earnest...First port of call, removing the engine from the mx6...

We jacked the front up and pulled the CVs so the transmission could come out with the engine. Then we disconnected all the plumbing from the engine bay and dropped the exhaust at the dump pipe.

We decided to leave the loom connected to the engine to save figuring out where everything belonged on that end...this turned into an interesting decision as it seems mazda decided to run the electrics for almost every system in the car in one big loom that ran from behind the drivers dash, along under the fender across the front over the radiator back through the other fender into the passenger side dash...The drivers side wasn't too bad, but on the passenger side the connectors were under the dash between the firewall and the heater box, so rather than remove the whole dash, we dropped the fender and went to work with the angle grinder to cut an access hole...


Once the loom was loose, the engine bay looked like this...


Then it was time to hook up the crane, unbolt the engine mounts
(there are 4, and one would have been easier to do while the car was jacked up earlier...oops) and lift the engine and transmission out together...


It was a tight fit, especially with the squished front end, but eventually it came out...



And after 6 hours work, with the transmission removed we were left with this...


In the morning, the fried K series comes out and the fun of mating the engine to the bellhousing & engine mounts begins...

Just before I go, for those who are worried about the intercooler sustaining off-road damage, If I ever get the chance to take the Freeby for some more serious off-road action, this is the kind of nudge bar/bash plate I have in mind...