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Thread: Electric brake controller.

  1. #1
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    Electric brake controller.

    Is there a difference between brands, there is certainly a price difference? Are the plugs standard?
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    There are even significant differences between models within a brand.

    Many of the controllers require you to level the unit in the car for the decelerometer to work properly, in a long wheel travel vehicle like a Range Rover or Defender the rock and rolling of the body can give false braking on cheaper controllers.

    The most recommended controllers on this forum are Tekonsha. With model P3 for under dash mounting or Prodigy2 for on the transission tunnel or top of dash. I Have both - the Prodigy in my RRc and the P3 on the D4. These controllers use aviation technology for the decelerometer so do not need to be leveled in the vehicle and with an additional kit hard wired into each car the unit can be swapped between vehicles.

    Some people use Redarc because the unit is hidden with only a knob protruding through the dash. I know nothing more about Redarc.

    Hope this helps.
    Diana

  3. #3
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    Thanks Diana, I was not aware that they had decelerometers, I thought it was merely a rheostat. I think that is what the one in the Paj is.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Ian View Post
    Thanks Diana, I was not aware that they had decelerometers, I thought it was merely a rheostat. I think that is what the one in the Paj is.
    There is a rheostat or equivalent device to set the amount of current delivered to the trailer brakes, but on the more expensive units Prodigy, Prodigy 2 and P3 they all have decelerometers to apply differential power to the trailer depending upon speed and how hard you apply the brakes. The cheap ones only have a mercury switch or similar that applies whatever you set.

    I know that on a couple of occasions, I have crested a hill at highway speed with 2 tonnes or over on the trailer to find traffic stopped in the dead ground. I have been pleasantly amazed how quickly the car/trailer combination stopped with emergency braking. In fact I believe that with the trailer braking working I stopped quicker than if I had been in the car alone. My car trailer however does have 4 wheel electric braking, which helps.

  5. #5
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    Are all connections standard, or does each manufacturer use their own design?
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  6. #6
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    They generally use the same wiring.layout of
    Hot positive
    Switched positive(or brake sense)
    Earth
    Power to trailer

    Naturally the colour code changes on different models
    Dave

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  7. #7
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    I reckon I can suss the wiring Dave, but unless the plugs are compatable it's a futile exercise. Is there a standard brake controller plug?
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  8. #8
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    This is the male plug on the trailer, Britax brand.

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    Do you mean the plug on the unit or between the car and trailer?
    The unit plug would differ between models but the trailer plug would be whatever you want to use. I've always just used 7 core wire of suitable size and a 7 pin plug and socket for brakes and lights.
    I would think using a seperate plug and socket for brakes would only be needed if you had 4 brakes like Diana's above. Would mean each tow vehicle would have to have that extra plug to use the brakes though.

  10. #10
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    The connection to the trailer should comply with ADR. see: Wiring Diagrams - Products - Narva



    Large Round - same design as Euro 7 Pin round*


    * Unfortunately on the main (black) socket Land Rover use pin 5 the electric brake terminal for one of the side lamps. This means that a trailer with electric brakes will apply current the minute the tail lamps turn on.

    You should also fit a diode in the brake signal wire to stop feedback between the trailer controller and the car electronics.

    The Tekonsha Prodigy/P3 range all seem to use the same interface plug to the unit, but they come with bare leads you splice yourself.


    The white plug is the one to the controller unit.

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