Hello to everyone on this brilliant forum. This is almost the same post I put in as my intro. I had a very nice welcome from some of you Thanks for that and a few leads on where to get the parts needed for my engine swap. I thought I might get a few more ideas if i throw another post into general. I am the proud owner of an EX 1991 British army Defender 130 Ambulance 3.5 ltr V8 with 5 speed LT85 gear box 17000 miles on the clock. This is what the truck looked like when I bought it.




I have since done a little renovation and removed the rear ambulance body and Damaged body panels. I was almost in tears as i'm a big fan of military trucks. But me the wife and 4 kids called for a bit more head room.






This is how the trucks looks now. It is starting to resemble a family camper
















I am in the middle of sorting the parts required to do an engine swap I have just bought an isuzu 4bd1t engine out of a 1990 NPR TRUCK so if anyone has the other parts ie: FLYWHEEL HOUSING from back of Isuzu engine, FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH KIT, LT85 BELLHOUSING OR LT95 BELLHOUSING or any other parts to make this swap please PM me I would be happy to buy them and cover the shipping cost to Canada. I am also open to any advice you my offer as this is the first camper I have built and will be the first engine swap aswell. I sure chose a difficult truck as my first build as parts are not available here in Canada but I thought I might as well start with the best I think it will be worth it in the end. I'm building this truck to drive from Canada through the USA into Central America when we reach Panama we will float the truck to Equador and on to Peru and ending in Chile Where we will live for awhile (I have family there). Through out the trip we will be volunteering with Habitat for Humanity helping to build homes for families in the many countries we will drive through. Our hope is to just lend a hand and have a great life experiance and teach the kids a thing or two about life and how to be good people at the same time. I WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERY ONE FOR THE KIND WELCOME and thanks to members dougal for telling me about this site also a big thanks to JustinC and Lieutenant Rover for their efforts and advice. I'm beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel it was quite dark a week ago. Kind regards, Justin

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Hi, its the other Justin here

Pics look impressive, and you've certainly set a task for yourself but it will all be worth it!

I'm still looking for the relevant bits, and I'll keep in contact. Keep up the good work!

JC

I forgot to ask if anyone has any thoughts on the suspension for an ambulance/camper I seem to have alot of roll and sway the rear anti sway bar seems very thin and the front doesn't have one. As for the springs/coils I installed a set of 2 inch lift heavy duty front and rear from brit part in the U.K The truck had helper coils to start with should I go back to the original coils or is there another option. I have nothing built on the inside of the camper so it is lighter than when I got it but also 14 inches taller and when its built and loaded with family and gear towing our loaded 3/4 ton sankey behind it should be much heavier. what would you lot suggest is the best fix. Regards, Justin

Hi bigH again, just read your bit on body roll. I had the same problem,I took off the double springs on the rear and fitted Ausi 130 heavy duty ones,along with Koni Heavy Track Raid damper units, ( about the best we have in the UK) These gave me a 60mm body lift (with the camper body on) I also have the TD5 anti roll bar on the rear axle
(I had to use this one as the TD5 fuel tank would not allow me to fit a rear military one), I also have a heavy duty military front anti roll one fitted along with heavy duty front springs. it still rolls but feels a lot safer. the main problem we have is down to the land rovers legendary axle articulation, hence the roll, but you will get used to it, it is arrested as the spring compress.I hope this help, any questions? feel free. good luck. big H.

I spoke to a guy who had done a camper conversion on a 130 and said he had alot of roll but fit thicker uprated anti roll bars from scorpion racing, can't remember if it was front & back or just the back but he said it was alot better than before.
You could double damper it, possibly back first then front if you like it. A wider track would be a good idea considering the extra height, i put 8x16 performance TX alloys on mine they have 1.5" more offset than the military wolf wheels and are rated at 1400kg each so added 3" extra track (not too keen on spacers) Also you could try some of those Air Helper springs that fit inside your rear springs enstead of the original steel helper springs.

Gaza

Nice looking truck there mate.

Easo

Hi Big H, Thanks for the tip, I got your e mail too.. Thanks. Can I ask if you have a contact in England for the springs or did you get them from OZ? I hope you can sort the photo thing I would love to see your setup. I would have done a slide off camper but we need to keep an eye on the Kids while driving. Other wise they will go wild in the back if I can't shout at them . What year is your 130 Rapier and is your set up as tall as mine I'm 9'4or 2.85m from the ground to the top of the truck measured at the center of the rear hub. How is your front anti sway bar attached to the diff housing mine does not seen to have any brackets for fitting an anti sway bar. A friend said I could use a complete front diff from a 1998 or older disco 1 as they have the fitting holes from factory Then all I need to do is weld some mounting points on the chassis DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS. Kind regards, Justin

Hi Gaza, Thanks for the info. Just checked scorpion racing and looks like they have the heavy rear sway kit I need. I have just bought a kit to double up on all the dampers/shocks front and rear from QT I think I'll take big HMRMP'S advice and go with the Koni heavy track raid dampers 8 of them might break the bank though$$$ $$$ but won't get around to fitting it all untill I sort the engine swap $$$$ again. The winter is coming FAST and that is my main job right now! -35 TO -45 makes things a bit tough. can't get a grip on the nuts & bolts with bloody big gloves on. If you take them off the things freeze to your hand and you have to run inside for so warm water. I have a heated Garage but the truck is a few inches to tall now to get inside.... with the wheels off I might just sqweek it in, NOT!!!!!!! As for the wheels You have no idea what it cost to buy and ship 8 wolf wheels from England to Canada I might just have to get a set of steel wheel spacers made up not sure If the alloy ones are strong enough. Cheers, Justin

If you like it now you'll love it when it's finnished......... In about 10 years and $50K from now

Cheers, Justin

Hi, bigH's springs are from OZ they are King Springs and rated at 490lb/in mine are OME aslo from OZ and they are 420lb/in but I have 2 sets at the rear. If you are double dampering then you probably don't need the Koni heavy track raid, 8 of them would require another mortgage anyway. If you have raised your height get the +2" dampers. The wheels we both have are from OZ too. Did I mention I don't like spacers You can get wheels that will give you a better offset this is the way I would go. I liked my wolf wheels but changing them saved me 5kg per wheel and I have 7. this isn't why I changed them just an additional benefit. If you are going to use spacers anyway then steel will be better although they are very heavy QT services do steel ones and they are a Quality company. There was an American on one of the Rover forums I frequent who had just bought some performance 8x16 TX alloys and I think he paid $200US each. I would stick with the 130 axle as at the very least you have stronger CV not sure about the rest but you could always weld some brackets to the axle. bigH's rapier is a '89 model and it is probably a little higher than yours, he will probably chime in and give you the exact measurement though.

Gaza