Queensland Road worthy check list
I'm having a little trouble discovering what the roadworthy criteria are for a safety cert/rwc in Queensland. I keep asking and nobody seems to want to tell me. Starting to fear a conspiracy. The Dept of Transport said "you need not concern yourself with that" in a vaguely disembodied voice similar to Ben Kenobi in the original star wars.
All the workshops I talk to seem to have a different price and different idea as to how long it will take to perform. Been told anything from 60-80 dollars and "leave it with us for the day" to less than an hour. When I ask what the check list is I am greeted with bring it, let us look we'll give you a list of stuff that needs doing etc..
So is there a proper list of "road worthy" criteria or is it it guidelines or what?
Does any one know?
I want to bring in my out of state landy, which is legal and fine elsewhere, and want to do the work to get it up to spec. rather than pay someone else.
I realise I can just run it through and have I fail then do the work, but i would prefer to do it the other way around, especially if there is any areas which are open to interpretation.
My experience here is it is very open to interpretation. In one of my roadworthy eposodes i took the car to two different people to get a roadworthy. The lists of what needed doing had no common items at all. Not one item was on the others list. So i just chose the one i liked best, did the work and took it back to them.
Not much help for you i'm afraid. It is quite annoying that they won't accepted the yearly inspection certificate from other states. One would have thought the standard would have been similar.
New! 2002 Disco II
84' 120" ute - 3.9 isuzu.
I saw a PDF checklist when doing a google search for other Queensland Transport docs. I can't find it in a search now of course.
It was a tick checklist that looked and read as though it is what the mechanic would use during their inspection. I thought I saved it at the time but can't find it.
So the info is out there.
If it is coming from a state that has yearly checks then it should be fine. Certainly wouldn't be anything to worry about anyway.
One of the reasons that a checklist is not readily available is that it will certainly depend on the date of the vehicle, as different requirements were introduced at different times.
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I had the dunga done when I bought it and it was still registerd in NSW (handed the plates back to the previous owner prior to getting it regoed in QLD). My local K-Mart tyre and auto did the safety cert and they wern't too hard on me (I have had a few Rangies done by them).
What I get annoyed about is when they start to get anal and over-the-top with some things. Oil leaks are common thing they pick on but a good dose of degreaser and a gerni fix that but many won't pick you up on it if it's a slight drip. I've had one where the RHS guard wasn't secured at the bottom of the guard (it was zip-tied by the previous owner), would have fixed it anyway but a bit silly if ypou ask me.
92 Rangie Vogue- The all-rounder
80 Rangie- 4.4, 4 speed and built from crap laying about the place!!!
There is a set capped price for safety certificates in QLD.
There are a set amount of things that need to be checked.
They are on a standard form with tick boxes, and guidelines around that.
Your best bet is to have it as good as you can get it and take it to a decent mechanic (another challenge) for the inspection.
They will advise you (with the initial copy of the safety cert) of anything not up to scratch.
You will have 30 days to rectify any fault.
They also can't charge you for bringing it back the 2nd time.
1988 Perentie 110 GS (ARN 48-548)
1966 No.5 (ARN 173-426)
Triumph Sprint GT 1050
REMLR # 214
Thanks for the responses,
Perhaps the reason I dont seem to be able to get a straight answer is that there isnt one!?
I bought a disco in Brisbane the not long ago from a dealer which allegedly had a rwc at the point of sale, not familiar with the standards in QLD I noticed it only has one mud guard, a stone chip low down the windscreen, a little oil seepage and a tyre tread that was down on the markers. In general conversation I have heard these may well fail a safety test.
Everywhere I ask the assumption seems to be that the tester will be rewarded with the work to fix, bordering on the disapointed when I explain that I know how to read a workshop manual and hold a spanner. Recently was quoted $900 to change the fuel pump on the disco 1 (V8i petrol 1995) which I did myself in 15 minutes? The same garage does RWCs!!
The out of state land is inside the 12 month test from NT but the engine blew, so want to get it shipped down and learn quickly how to rebuild a V8.
But at the end of the day I agree I can just take in a vehicle to a station have it tested and then work on anything that fails. What I find exasperating is that with cars of this age I cant get any idea of the standards expected. I cant see that the standards change so much, except for emissions tests, doesn't matter how old your brakes are they still have to stop the car within a certain time.
But If anyone can shed anymore light I would be truly grateful.
I just got my RWC/Safety Cert for the Range Rover this afternoon, cost was $66.00 standard fee, I had to supply a current Gas Certificate, as it is duel fuel. the following items are on my copy of the Safety Certificate.
2-Modifications (if modified Blue plate affixed)
3-Seats & Restraints
4-Lights and Electrical components, (wipers washers,horn, driving lights high beam only)
5-Windscreen & Windows (no chips, no loose windows)
6-Body & Chassis (mine put on hoist and thorough check, look for oil leaks from under)
7-Steering & Suspension (done on hoist)
8-Tyres & wheels (done on hoist)
9-Brake Components " " " " "
10-Engine & driveline (done on hoist)
11-Exhaust Emissions (checked with engine running no smoke/fumes,quiet
12-Road Test (Optional I am told) tester knows I would not present a sub-standard vehicle)
13-Service Brake Test
14-Hand Brake Test
If your vehicle is neat clean and well presented it goes a long way towards the tester's attitude my tester has a very good reputation for being good & fair but has his little quirks, seat belt buckles, windscreen chips, RUST,brakes
hope that is of help
68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
85 Range Rover 5 spd
98 Disco 1 300TDI auto
80 Ser 3 Lightweight
Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
Sankey 1/2 ton trailer 32-GJ-65
REMLR No 003
No windscreen chips in the drivers line of sight, NO oil leaks, no fraying on seat belts, no visible rust even if only cosmetic rust in non-structural items, brakes are supposed to be tested with the Tapley meter, no loose trim, mats, or carpets that may impede on safe operation, ingress, or egress. The list goes on and on. Many items are petty, and many other items are regarded as petty by many. ALL lights fitted must be operational. The vehicle must comply with the Traffic Act at time of first registration in Qld. This latter has been a source of disputation for ever and ever. Most reasonable people will accept the date of manufacture but one does occasionally come across a pedant who says the vehicle has never before been registered in Qld. & so requires the vehicle to comply with that day's rules.
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seriesly (13th March 2009)
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