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Thread: Adaptor shaft

  1. #141
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    Have a read of this thread.. It'll give u a better idea of what I've done. The modified LT230 gear has a tube nut up its guts, which screws onto the ZF output shaft so as to preload that box. The key is using shims to get it in the right place so when its tightened, it also puts a small amount of pre load on the front taper roller bearing in the LT transfer case. The rear is preloaded as norm using the PTO access hole. This is also access to fit or remove the Tube Nut.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...-lt-230-a.html
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  2. #142
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    Thanks Sitec. Got part way through your other thread then ran over to my zf auto on the shed floor for a look see.

    Is the following too simple?

    Buy this for about $100 from Ashcroft (as an example). Its designed to fit the LT230 input gear so no problems that end. It's what I'm assuming Sitec used.

    Ashcroft Transmissions

    Then the only machining needed is the development of an adaptor drive flange onto which to bolt the ftc5090 - same as zf setup. The adaptor drive flange of course bolts to the MSA drive flange.

    So field service is pto cover and bearing support off. Remove input gear. Undo draw bolt (if not already broken). Pull broken bits of ftc5090 out. Put in new ftc5090 with new draw bolt. Reverse rest of process and drive on. This is assuming no damage to the adaptor drive flange and that you can get broken end of draw bolt out.

    So how much to make up an adaptor drive flange?

    I'm yet to find a picture of the female spline in the ftc5090.

    Apart from continued use of the SAE10 spline and potential overall length of the ftc5090 what is the downside - why was this not a choice when compared to the one piece Sheldon/Outcast unit which still used the SAE10?

    And you may have to swap out your LT230 input gear for the longer spline version (not 100% sure this is necessary) but say change over cost $300 (cost me $250 some years ago).

  3. #143
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    Popped this off a 1997 zf auto out of a DIsco 1. So it should match the long spline version sold by Ashcroft. Earlier Disco 1 fct5090s had a shorter SAE10 spline to suit shorter spline LT230 input gear.

    IMGP3239.jpg

    IMGP3240.jpg

    Is it possible to do away with the draw bolt? To stop floating, secure the fct5090 to the inside of the LT230 input gear by a 'c' clip, as in earlier drawings.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...t-imgp3230.jpg

  4. #144
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    Ancient has come back with 4140 for hub and 4340 for shaft.

    I could be misunderstanding, but it seems that 4340 is stronger than 4140 ie the shaft might be stronger than the drive flange. Could the shaft strip the drive flange splines in overload? To my way of thinking I would want the drive flange spines to survive at the cost of the shaft. Obviously if the two pieces are way stronger than the forces being applied then doesn't matter.

    Trying to get a few links comparing both and their applications.

    4340 High Tensile Steel | Interlloy | Engineering Steels + Alloys

    This is interesting and supports Ancients recommendations

    'In my experience, however, in sections where heat treatment results in >95% martensite, with comparable levels of cleanliness, and tempered to equal hardness and strength levels, 4140 will have a higher impact strength than 4340. This is contrary to 'common wisdom', but I have test data that supports it. This is mostly a trivial point, however, since in most applications where 4340 is preferred over 4140, the section thickness is such that the 4140 might not fully harden, but the 4340 will'.

    4140 and 4340 alloy steel - Metal and Metallurgy engineering - Eng-Tips

  5. #145
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    For me, modifying the input gear is a non-starter - I want to confine any custom parts to the adapter itself.

    Apologies if I've posted this before. I've thought about posting numerous times but don't think I've actually done it.

    Knowing what my standard Salisbury axles coped with without breakage, I'm quite confident of using one of those as the basis for a shaft design of AM/Mudmouse style, utilising a SIII drive flange as Mudmouse has done.
    An adapter shaft is going to see many times less torque than a halfshaft in a locked diff (which standard axles cope with reasonably). The 10 spline shaft in the LT230 is weaker than the Salisbury spline so any breakage should happen at the input gear end of the shaft. It should then be easy to remove/change should it ever break.

    Upgraded material for the shaft would preferable, but even the standard LR axle material would be up to it IMO.

    Only thing to sort out is the drive flange spline lubrication but there are a number of options for that and I don't see it as a show stopper. If it needs some lubrication every year or so for confidence then so be it.

    To me the design ticks all the boxes - simple, sufficiently strong, able to be changed in the field utilising a relatively small/light spare, and keeps the LT230 standard. I also think there's half a chance a broken shaft could be welded sufficiently in the field as a "get me home" repair if you were really stuck remotely without a spare.

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

  6. #146
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    Would be great to see mudmouses pics of his, hint hint. I don't even know what a series3 flange looks like

  7. #147
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    Have read all this thread with interest............ with thoughts about another LR like Verns.

    When I was putting the Ritters C9 / LT 95 TC late 70's conversion behind the Chev everything was apart to replace seals.

    Should have taken photos I guess....... AFAIRC.... output from the C9 had been cut off and welded to some sort of female splined sleeve that mated with LT 95 input shaft, inside adaptor housing.

    Remember thinking that it was a flawless big weld. Gets flogged, no probs.

    Noel might still be working at Ritters and remember how it was done.

    Just trying to say that welding can work.

    cheers, DL

  8. #148
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    Hi SteveG, not sure whose design or what design is being referred to or if a mix, or is it general observation of what you would like.

    My last drawing uses off the shelf land rover parts (or after market copies) proved in thousands of vehicles.

    The exception is the drive flange which will have to be made - but even then it is copying the proved 20 involute zf output spline system - which does not get lubricated because there is no movement because it is bolted.

    Only the SAE10 requires lubrication and that is taken care of by cross drilling, and oil feeder plate if fitted

    The concept is probably much like mudmouses use of a S3 drive flange (...whip...crack...photos).

  9. #149
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    S3 , right, is 24 spline 31.5mm approx o/d. Spline length approx 30mm. Left is MSA drive flange.

    S3 fange outside dia approx 113.5mm (compared to 120mm for MSA drive flange).

    IMGP3241.jpg

    IMGP3243.jpg

    IMGP3244.jpg

    IMGP3245.jpg

  10. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by steveG View Post
    Dervish - did you happen to measure the shaft length?
    If the length were suitable it might be possible to use one and only have to make a custom splined flange for the gearbox end.

    Steve
    Large spline 40.8mm (red), dia: 59.5mm (yellow)
    Base to end of oil seal landing: 122.2mm (green)
    End of oil seal to end of shaft: 106.8mm (blue)
    Shaft length: 229mm



    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Just out of curiosity, why is it out? Fretting un-lubed splines?
    Gearbox was shagged, but I think un-lubed splines are a bad idea.



    I found it interesting that the shaft would fit through the LT230 if the oil seal and bearing were out of the way. In theory, I think it should be possible to remove these with the TC in place. Probably not possible in practice though.

    I also took a picture of the gearbox output. Spline base diameter on the gearbox side of this is 39.5mm, not sure how that compares to an Isuzu mainshaft spline.



    Not sure if this is useful information to anyone, but these shafts can apparently be had for $160 and should be readily available; that has to make them an attractive option.

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