Thread: 4BD1T - set for oil drain etc

you can drain it back down the air outlet line (heads down into the sump to aid with crank case ventilation and removeal of the vac pump lube) off of the alternator mounted vac pump with a t piece, nope the suzis have an inbuilt oil cooler so you shouldnt need more than that and yes if you have a water cooled turbo you can simply T off of the heater lines if you need to.

I'll try to get pics of the things Im talking about.

Thanks Dave. I will probably have to extend/move out the crank case breather. So I might look at making a T there also for the oil drain. Alternatively I read a double banjo bolt at motor end of the alternator oil drain works.

Boring into the block just above the sumpe will give you a much bigger drain hole than the alternator. You're not just draining oil, there's a fair draught of air and exhaust that comes through the turbo oil seals.

IMO water lines aren't necessary on a diesel turbo. They're only there for hot shutdown on petrol engines. If you do hook up water lines then make sure that water can thermosiphon through it and steam can escape through the uphill line.
If you don't then the coolant will boil and vapourlock when the engine is shut down.

Originally Posted by rar110

Thanks Dave. I will probably have to extend/move out the crank case breather. So I might look at making a T there also for the oil drain. Alternatively I read a double banjo bolt at motor end of the alternator oil drain works.

The alternator drain isn't sufficient, I had a flooding issue with mine, and ended up with the exhaust full of oil...

I removed the small plate on the passenger side of the block under the manifold and welded a angled pipe to it, I then gave the turbo drain its own outlet to the sump.

JC

thanks for the replies.

Justin is it the oval plate with a screw at each end just above the starter motor. What is this for.

That looks like good option, maybe weld a 17mm pipe on to it.

Originally Posted by justinc

The alternator drain isn't sufficient, I had a flooding issue with mine, and ended up with the exhaust full of oil...

I removed the small plate on the passenger side of the block under the manifold and welded a angled pipe to it, I then gave the turbo drain its own outlet to the sump.

JC

was yours on the oil return line from the vac pump or the air return line from the vac pump inc? Id have thought that the beefed up oil/ air line would have had no hassles dealing with the oil flow.

Originally Posted by rar110

thanks for the replies.

Justin is it the oval plate with a screw at each end just above the starter motor. What is this for.

That looks like good option, maybe weld a 17mm pipe on to it.

Under that is the oil pump drive.
Could work well, but I use a low mount turbo and have a 4BD1T with the facotry drain hole just above the sump.

Originally Posted by rar110

thanks for the replies.

Justin is it the oval plate with a screw at each end just above the starter motor. What is this for.

That looks like good option, maybe weld a 17mm pipe on to it.

Thats it. As Dougal says, the oil pump drive is beneath, but it drains back to the sump beautifully.

Dave, I was using the alternator oil return, and the volume of oil was too much and backed up into the turbo housing oil gallery The guy that made my exhaust system had a fit because he couldn't weld the flex up due to the oil in it.

JC