While we are talking about gauges, how about adding Boost gauges to the thread.
If people don't mind what EGT gauges and Boost gauges are in use?
Glenn
While we are talking about gauges, how about adding Boost gauges to the thread.
If people don't mind what EGT gauges and Boost gauges are in use?
Glenn
No, they are not expensive. Considering the cost to buy all the individual guages and sensors to run what the Madman does it will cost heaps more. The Madman is a kit that supplies all the right sensors and mounting plates for your vehicle. You just need to let them know what you would like it to read and they will supply the right parts.
The temperatures use a normal VDO sensor which means there is a fare amount of work to get these mounted up. The best thing about the Madman is that you can set alarms for any over temperature. This can be set by the user so you can run it extremely tight if you like. Combining a tight water temperature alarm and having the low water sensor alarm would cover you in most situations. You would have to have complete failure of everything to miss this
IMHO it is a brilliant kit.
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
Rijidij
Either the Thermoguard or VDO analogue - I am using a VDO gauge with the probe down stream fo the Turbo - essential for lonjevity especially when working the engine hard. I have just arrived home from a 6000k trip in just over a week - far west QLD in 45-50 degree heat - Strezlecki post rain and floods - Eyre Peninsula cold and wet - Adelaide and home via Broken Hill Wilcania - Bourke on the Darling run south of the river - lots of very soft - ending with 1500ks today. The EGT gauge proved to be most important in managing the engine load and in monitoring how hard the engine was working and in managing fuel consumption - higher EGTs = higher fuel consumption
CHT
I drilled and tapped mine into the manifold. It's quite thick in the middle, so it shouldn't affect anything.
I didn't remove the manifold to drill it........I drilled a small pilot hole first while holding a small, but powerful magnet next to the drill bit to collect the metal shavings. When I slowly drilled the bigger hole and tapped it, I used the magnet, but I also had the engine running so the exhaust pressure would prevent anything dropping in if the magnet missed it. I found out about this method on a engine conversion site I was looking at. It seems to be a common practice and works well.
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'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
Thanks Murray,
Looks good. Glad to hear there's a fair bit of meat in the middle of the manifold, so I'll be doing the same.
My manifold's still off the car so thankfully I won't need a magnet this time, but its a very neat trick, I'll have to remember that.
Cheers
Bojan
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