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Thread: Oil Pump

  1. 25th April 2016, 11:08 AM #1
    howie
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    Oil Pump

    Hi all, looking at doing the timing belts on my 2008 D3. Would like to know if there is any way of telling if I need the upgraded oil pump by vin number , build date, or any other way before I pull it apart. Tried to find out on the net but no joy. Just so I can buy all the bits before I start. Cheers.
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  2. 25th April 2016, 05:51 PM #2
    90 Rangie Guest
    No way to tell from vin number as far as I know.
    I did a lot of research before getting my belts done, and from what I have been told some vins after mine had the old style housing while when mine was done it had the new style MY 8.5.
    I had my belts done early as was worried about losing motor through pump housing failure.
    Fuel pumps vins jump around as well.
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  3. 25th April 2016, 06:56 PM #3
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    jonesy63
    jonesy63 is offline Wizard
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    For the sake of about $150 to replace it with the latest variant - why risk it? Apart from not cracking and costing you a new motor, a new oil pump is going to be a lot be better at its job - keeping the oil moving through your motor. I vote to change it when doing belts.
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  4. 25th April 2016, 07:26 PM #4
    Ean Austral Guest
    You can remove the timing belt cover and see the oil pump housing , you should be able to then order it and do the pump and belt in 1 go. It will also give you an idea on what you have to do to get the job done easier. The first hurdle is the fan , you may need to make or buy a fan spanner.


    It depends on if you think a couple of hours work to get to the point of pulling where you can see the timing belt and the oil pump is worth the effort.


    Cheers Ean
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  5. 28th April 2016, 10:25 AM #5
    AndrewM
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    A bit off topic and more related to another post (alternator), but I had the timing belt done on my MY08 D3 at 70,000 before a Perth to Cape York trip. Didn't think of doing the oil pump, but did change the alternator. I had been having battery problems and by the time you get to the timing belt you are almost at the alternator. Glad we changed it as it smelt very burnt - and the battery problems disappeared!
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  6. 29th April 2016, 06:41 AM #6
    boardrider
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    jonesy63
    where can you get a pump for that price, best i could find was $255 from uk or $373 in oz
    boardrider
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  7. 29th April 2016, 02:50 PM #7
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    justinc
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    they have gone way up in price. latest I have seen genuine is $444
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
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  8. 29th April 2016, 03:54 PM #8
    Graeme
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    You will also need a new crankshaft pulley bolt if the oil pump housing is removed.
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  9. 30th April 2016, 07:51 AM #9
    boardrider
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    oil pump

    just further on this job and removing the fan.I just recently did my alternator,being a builder i had a look around to see what i had.I had a arch bar ( flat gal steel ) 600 long x 80 wide x 8mm thick,used a grinder to cut out a notch 36mm wide,slipped down the gap and gave it 3 good hits clockwise,job done.
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  10. 30th April 2016, 07:54 AM #10
    Graeme
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    A couple of sharp taps on a big shifter did the job on a 3.0.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
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