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Thread: Rebuilt gearbox subsequent problems ?

  1. #1
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    Rebuilt gearbox subsequent problems ?

    Question for those who have had their gearbox rebuilt....

    Do you believe the rebuild has made it stronger and now with routine oil changes it is likely to last longer.... Or is just brought it back to factory level.

    I've read part of the problem is a weak valve block (bad metal ?) that may be replaced as part of the rebuilds and thefore no longer an issue.

    P.S. ...I know there are 2 box's but rebuilds seem to be common for both.

    Seriously looking to buy as the prices a going down, but want to use it to tow a 2t caravan, don't mind doing 1 rebuild just don't want to be doing it regularly

    Darren

  2. #2
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    A good quality rebuild, with a new valve body should see you right for a long time - even towing. The new valve bodies are made from a stronger material, so they won't wear like the original one will. I wouldn't go increasing the power of the TD6 too much over factory though, as the trannie is borderline to handle to torque of the standard engine.

    Buy the car - you will love it. Haggle a price that allows you to do a proper rebuild when needed - allow at least $8,000 to do this properly, maybe more if you include a new valve body.

    It will be worth your time.

    Cheers - Gav.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #3
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    I had mine done 12months/35k ago, I put a new heavy duty torque converter on and had a full rebuild done including an out of the box transfer case, I've got full confidence in the box outlasting the car and it's been going like a train ever since...mine is the td6, gm box. The best tow vehicle I've ever had.

  4. #4
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    "Soon" I'll be able to report on my fitting of 5L50E into my L322.
    I was able to use 90% of the new gearbox; the case, oil pump components, all the heavier duty clutches, new sprags, new valve block, stronger torque converter (2600rpm stall I believe), heavier spring steel drive plate, etc.
    Yes, there is a bit of machining to do, but externally/drive plate/flywheel, etc.

    It's in the car but I've pulled 1/2 the inside apart to upgrade the "std" sound system with sat nav, etc.
    And I'm working out of town so one day each weekend at home lately- can't get past the "house jobs"

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by donrover0 View Post
    "Soon" I'll be able to report on my fitting of 5L50E into my L322.
    I was able to use 90% of the new gearbox; the case, oil pump components, all the heavier duty clutches, new sprags, new valve block, stronger torque converter (2600rpm stall I believe), heavier spring steel drive plate, etc.
    Yes, there is a bit of machining to do, but externally/drive plate/flywheel, etc.

    It's in the car but I've pulled 1/2 the inside apart to upgrade the "std" sound system with sat nav, etc.
    And I'm working out of town so one day each weekend at home lately- can't get past the "house jobs"
    Thanks for the update.. Any chance of a few pics along the way? Did the transfer case bolt straight up?
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  6. #6
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    You guessed it, didn't take pics during the changeover/assembly of innards, only of completed assembly. Doesnt look any different except it's shiny/brand new casing!
    As I bought a NEW unused 5L50E ( off US ebay)-- has mostly new parts inside, including THAT valve block.
    The output shaft splines (104T) were same as original, but no way that RR output shaft would fit in due to slightly longer (new) planetary gear set, so here had to use original

    Utilising original bell housing assy and rear adaptor so transfer bolts on as normal.

    The two main housings are identical castings, just some different drillings/tappings for plugs, etc.
    They are a very simple auto to work on; even easier than a ZF! but you need a ginormous circlip pliers; none of which was available at ANY auto repair shop or tool supplier in Toowoomba; made my own.
    No, you can't get the one big circlip out with screwdrivers unless you want to risk butchering/damage something else!

  7. #7
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    donrover0
    What cost was it to get your NEW unused 5L50E ( off US ebay)-- to your home, had you any problems getting it thru Australian customs and how much do you believe it will cost you all up compaired to getting the old GM box rebuilt with all lthe sonnex kit upgrade in it ?.
    Thanks Declan.

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    Sounds like it is goin well mate - have you had much thought on the electronics and getting them to work?

    I think the whole world is waiting for you to complete this - it will open the flood gates...

    Declan, even if this solution costs more, the 5L50E is a much stronger box and will be capable of handling an uprated TD6 with ease, where the 5L40E already there is at its limit now...
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  9. #9
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    Actual monetary outlay including gearbox, freight, customs, gst then machining springsteel driveplate, flywheel, spacers, bush, etc, oils-- totalled about $4000 PLUS probably 100 hours research, actual stripping/reassembling, removal/reinstallation.
    Electronics? Shouldn't really be any hassles. The valve block/input-output speed sensors/solenoids/internal wiring loom/gearbox plug are identical.
    I did a similar gearbox upgrade behind my TD5--- Jaguar ZF 4HP24 in lieu of 4HP22- same solenoids/output plug--- just plugged it in and all good--- smoother gear changes than the original Td5 auto!

    I used USAtoAUS for freighting, but ex Seattle'to Brisbane( only $250 seafreight) so still theres any inland US component.
    Yes-- 5% duty and 10% GST on box, duty, (sea)freight. All done by USAtoAUS; just pay their bill- easy as.

  10. #10
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    well done Don, a trip to Toowoomba might be needed!

    Do you have any idea of labor time?

    How much would this cost to have done? (if we can find someone to do it)

    Gav - this is the solution for electronic simplicity.
    L322 3.6TDv8 Lux

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