should the belt and pulleys have been done via service by 92K?
oh, and JC?
whatever you do--
dont hook the van up to it---![]()
OK, apart from a bit of claret from a sharp hose clamp, (See gore pic below) it took 2 hours to remove. It isn't particularly difficult, just fiddly. I would say it is a DIY if you have some patience and some 1/4"drive long reach bars and socket set, a pair of hose spring clip removal pliers, and some band aids
.
Firstly, remove the under skirt and all engine undercovers, the airbox, the coolant expansion bottle, and either drain the coolant if you are changing it out, or plug the pipes to prevent loss. unclip the top of the shroud, remove and unplug the fan, (It is a left hand thread)Then unscrew the power steer (I think that is what it is..) cooler from the bottom of the shroud and unbolt the 6 small screws with hex heads holding the shroud to the rad, and the turbo inlet pipework from the passenger side of the shroud. withdraw the shroud upward. Remove accessory belt and check tensioner and idlers; these were ALL in dire need of replacement, this vehicle has 92,000km up.
The main battery wire connection is on the outer edge of the alternator, covered with a red rubber boot. It is hard to see but after the 3 bolts and the front stiffener bracket for the alternator mounting are removed and the alternator is free to drop down, it can be rotated slightly to access this 13mm nut. Undo and remove the main battery wire, then pull alternator forwards enough to remove the plug at the back, LR are thoughtful enough to allow excess wire length so this can be done
You will have to jiggle and wiggle it a bit, and pull some small coolant hoses out of the way but the alternator will come out easily.
Note:
Firstly, A big thanks to Sniegy, a quick call to him after I discovered my RAVE disc got damaged and wouldnt read, had him help me out in no time, So thanks Pete!!
Secondly, I took off the drivers wheel and inner guard liner, even though apparently it looks like you don't need to do it at first glance, you do to get a look at things and it also helps with light so you can see better
Thirdly, be very careful of these spring clips holding the hoses on, I sliced and tore my hand very easily on one, while blindly undoing the main battery lead from the side of the alternator.
All in all it wasn't as bad as I was lead to believe, and refitting everything when the new Alternator turns up should go without a hitch, except I am thinking the main lead reconnection and starting the nut maybe a bit of a pain...
Part numbers;
Alternator YLE500340 (Supercedes apparently to LRO26344)
Main drive belt PQS500430
Belt tensioner PQG500160
Idler, small, 2 required PQH500090
Idler, larger, 1 required PQH500080
Enjoy
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
should the belt and pulleys have been done via service by 92K?
oh, and JC?
whatever you do--
dont hook the van up to it---![]()
"How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"
'93 V8 Rossi
'97 to '07. sold.![]()
'01 V8 D2
'06 to 10. written off.
'03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
'10 to '21
'16.5 RRS SDV8
'21 to Infinity and Beyond!
1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
Home is where you park it..
[IMG][/IMG]
Not sure. I haven't serviced this particular vehicle, only done the trans service on it. The owner likes to do his own oil changes etc. I would say that at 80,000km these serpentine belt tensioners and idlers need to be eyeballed, and they are cheap enough to replace anyhow. IIRC the Tensioner is about $145, from LR, the idlers about $58 each and the belt was $55.
And no, I do not want to own one of these, much as I like to drive it
JC
The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈
Something for me to look forward to on mine. Maybe I will make a mental note to do the belt / idlers / etc. at 80 000km (currently still under 70 000km).
Several TDV8s needing new alternators, any obvious reasons JC?
I was looking at V10TDi Touareg and found high numbers (like a guarantee) of alternator failures – they put it down to where it’s located. It is wedged between the back of the engine and the firewall down between the two banks (driven by shaft), no air flow getting absurdly hot. Full day to change (anyone seen under the bonnet of a V10 can imagine why), about 4k job all up. Same as your comment, awesome car to drive – never own one.
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Hi JC,
Just come across your TDV8 alternator replacement procedure, mine needs replacing, just toasted it whilst on a trip.
The vehicle doesn't get back to my house until Monday just trying to do some prep work prior to arrival, bit of research. I'm assuming that the removal of the top fan shroud is easy ish........ have you learnt any more since you did this job three years ago?
Cheers Marty
I did mine a while back. Be aware that you will need to replace a significant amount of coolant (a few hoses need to be removed for access).
Hi BJ,
Thanks I bought some coolant on Friday, thanks for the heads up, based on the cost I'll be vacuuming and spilt coolant of the floor and reusing it........!!!
Cheers Marty
What coolant did you get? I use Holden Delco red. Same stuff as LR, but cheaper.
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