Thread: Opinion needed

This morning I wasted about 30 minutes making an extension for my engine lifting crane, my head certainly wasn't focused, as I had extended the point of balance by 450mm, as soon as the weight was on the penny dropped .
Anyway it didn't take long to remove and things got underway, I removed 4 of the bell housing studs and screwed in the extended guides, this makes the job of lining up the gearbox very easy

as the extended studs get into the respective holes long before the input shaft is engaged in the clutch driven plate, then it is only a matter of small movement on the crankshaft to line up the input shaft with the clutch driven plate, then push the engine home

attach all the 3/8"UNF nuts to the studs and torque them up, line up engine mounts and do the same, job almost finished LOL, here is an image of the 4 studs, they were 3/8" Whitworth bolts from Bunnings,

I turned/machined the heads off in my lathe, but you could do the same thing on a bench grinder, or just simply cut the heads off and round off the end of the shaft.
I had to change from the engine crane to my overhead gantry half way through the job,

just to make the job a little easier, my good wife had to help me as I couldn't see what was happening at the back end of the engine, they seem to get caught on everything here it is insitu

After fitting it all up I had to remove the LHS guard as I will need to modify the electrics

the weather has been a mixture today, but this afternoon it got cold and my back was killing me so I have called it a day, anyway a bit of reading to find out what is what regarding the wiring loom that was installed to suit the diesel, to be modified to suit the petrol engine and keyless start, anyway cheers Dennis
ps I know I will have to modify the engine pipe, if I can get it out at all, I do have a NOS engine pipe to suit petrol engine, hopefully I can just mod this engine pipe..

Spent the morning retrieving some small parts from a wreck, just to bring this one step closer to moving under it's own power

the diesel throttle cross shaft is different, so I had to swap out for S2A petrol shaft, where did the day go??, anyway cheers Dennis
ps still need to clean n paint some items, but at least I have everything in place now,,.

I have spent way too many hours this week to that 4 lettered word aka 'work', anyway this morning I got stuck into modifying the wiring to suit a petrol engine, and I still have to make a couple of additions and do a final tidy up, but this afternoon I was able with my good wife's help to fire the engine up
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIShiAzbyxk&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw[/ame]
I still have to install a fuel pump and delivery line, put the new carburetor on, re-instate the cooling system, shorten the engine pipe to suit a petrol engine, as the petrol engine pipe is shorter in overall length than the diesel pipe (damn), but once I have installed an ignition circuit etc I will be able to start and move the Land Rover under it's own power as it is very heavy with all that other gear on it, swap meet here in Cessnock in the morning I will be over looking at that for a few hours, anyway cheers Dennis

Thanks for these 'tutorials' Dennis , much appreciated.

Well hot on the heels of the ongoing saga, as I said yesterday the 'swap meet' was on this morning and I duly attended, was home by 0930 (was on the ground @0630 in the thick fog), I didn't buy anything.
My neighbor is away O/seas ATM and will be home in the next few days and I have a Land Rover under his carport to allow me some room to work on this job, and I did say to him that I would mow his lawn etc, so with that in mind and the weather forecast for the next few days, I decided that I would be foolish not to utilize the time today, so I edged/whipper snipped @ mowed our's and his, job over by 1210hrs a quick lunch and uncover 175-319.
I had all intentions of completing the fuel system today but as usual 'Murphy's Law' kicks in and the fuel pump I was intending to use would not lift fuel from a jerry can

so strip it was the order of the afternoon, after making sure I had the items needed to complete the job, clamp the pump lightly in a bench vice, and undo the screws (evenly) around the periphery of the pump (6 screws) lift the top of the pump off by gently easing the diaphragm away from the top half of the pump leaving it in place as such

there are 2 things that can fail in the pump Valves/Diaphragm, my diaphragm was A1 so it had to be the valves, and I was correct they wouldn't seal

anyway the pump needed to be degreased etc washed and blown out with air, re-assembled

when re-assembling the pump, keep the body held by the flange in the vice, attach the top half to the base, fit the 6 screws but only screw them half way in, then pull up on the priming handle and hold it UP, while tightening the screws in opposite sequence, when all are tight you can let the priming handle go, if you don't do this you will tear the diaphragm on the first down stroke and your pump will not work.
Before you fit the pump it is always advisable to check the integrity of the pump, screw in a temporary fuel line and make the pump work, if it doesn't half fill the bowl in 3-4 pumps it is faulty, anyway mine worked

and as usual I didn't have a gasket, so I improvised and made one

using some of my wad punches to make cutting around corners a tad easier LOL, the fuel line from the tank to pump is complete, but I need to buy some 'Black plastic' fuel line from the local diesel service and I will complete the fuel line to the new carburetor

in the background of that image, you can see a yellow cable going into a fuse holder, a very well known brand, but I HATE CRIMPED CONNECTIONS, and that fuse holder has just that and moving it yesterday and one end of the fuse holder let go, very poor performance in my opinion, both ends are now soldered as they should have been in the first place, anyone who crimps any 12V connection is asking for trouble IMHO, anyway that's been my day sort of LOL cheers Dennis

I didn't achieve a great deal today, other than a fuel line installed with a S/hand carburetor (it's a good one) mainly because I cannot wait until I source some new fuel lines.
A little bit of electrical work done also, still need to shorten some of the wires/cables, re-fitted the hoses filled block/radiator with water only to find that I have numerous small water leaks coming from the top of the bottom radiator hose, but if needed I can fill it and start it and hopefully move it when my neighbor comes home, that is if he comes home before I had calculated his return, anyway it's back to work, cheers Dennis

Continuing along the way as you do, because if I don't do, nobody is going to do it for me .
My next door neighbor has come home from his UK trip, and I had moved 'Chloe' from his carport and moved a No 5 trailer down in front of his spare side of his garage, he says it's not in his way ATM and it can stay there, so that still allows me a little room to move about, and with the weather predictions of heavy rain on the way, I have made good use of the day today.
The exhaust system was the first order of the day, the diesel engine that I had fitted has a very different engine pipe, it is longer and taller, so it needed to be modified to suit the petrol engine, I do have a NOS petrol engine pipe

but to fit this pipe I would have to remove the PTO and the PTO line shaft, which I thought was way too much work, so I decided to go down the shorten the diesel pipe, so after taking some measurements I marked the pipe by using 2 zip ties

join the edges and weld them together using my MIG. The pipe was also cut n shut under the flywheel X member, this will need to be fully welded if I can get it onto a hoist, if not the local exhaust shop will get the job to complete the weld job.
I had bought a brass Olive to join a fuel line to the carburetor, that was a success, no fuel leaks, next was to sort out the choke cable, I bought a generic brand, it will do for the time being, I will need to get a genuine type as the choke will not stay on, but before fitting the choke I had to cut a hole in the bulkhead for the choke cable to pass through, out with the Air/cond fitters tool, cuts a neat hole too

the result a neat hole

which then allowed me to refit the dash, and the finished job (for the time being)

tomorrow replace the floor sections and maybe the LHS guard, anyway cheers Dennis

I'm running out of ideas on how to make this engine run smooth or even keep running rough
This morning I had the idea that the condenser could be faulty, so I sourced another, item on left is the original, a quick solder job and swapped them

held my breath while I started the engine, only to be greeted by the same sounds, engine running rough+++
It has new plugs, I bought a new set of leads (later found 2 more sets in the shed ) anyway that made little or no difference, so I swapped the originals back on.
This afternoon I swapped carburetors, in fact I have had 3 different carburetors on and it has made no difference

the shiney one has some plastic bits on it, not sure what they are for so I left them as it is

and in utter disgust with myself I have closed the bonnet and walked away from it

it is now tarped up against the weather, with no hope of getting this done over the next 3 days it is making me annoyed anyway cheers grumpy ole Dennis