Originally Posted by
Mercguy
Good question.
I haven't been able to get underneath, we've had too much rain and last weekend I busted my right knee (lateral meniscus torn clean off) so can't get under to measure up accurately. Divorced or not, I'm going to be looking into some CV propshafts, rather than uni joints. The hope there is to get a more balanced propshaft, as well as a slightly enhanced articulation range, to combat any angle increase caused by the t-case separation.
But right now, a couple of things have become a little clearer.
1. transfercase separation and associated costs versus;
2. keeping the trans/t-case assembly and using adapterplate & custom converter
Believe it or not, the costs are not a lot different. The amount of effort however, is significantly in favour of keeping the existing 4HP22 & BW, and even allowing for a modded LT230 to be swapped in, should the BW fail.
If the 4hp22 fails however, it's almost a net $2k loss immediately on the custom converter, along with the cost of finding another good transmission.
as opposed to the following scenario, which I have loosely defined.
1. prep the 722.6 and investigate adaptor for rear housing to allow an LT230 to bolt-on directly - could be about 1k to machine a new rear housing. I would hope it would be a lot less, but i need to look into this in detail.
2. 722.6 requires standalone trans controller anyway (costs vary, but can be had from between 600-900au $)
3. cost of an LT230 - whether it's me buying 2nd hand and rebuilding myself, or just buying one outright which has been given the ducks nuts so to speak (ashcroft etc) so anything up to $2500 incl shipping & duty.
4. will need a driveshaft if the trans & tcase are divorced, and that means tcase input shaft /flanged / cv's / yoke etc... up to about 500 bucks depending on the cv costs.
There's a bunch more stuff to investigate, but for now I'm slowly working it all out.
I have not factored in the basic engine mount fab / exhaust header / sump mods at the moment. Those costs are something I always fully expected as bare minimum requirements. Right now, I'm trying to balance 'bang for buck' in the other areas to see what will give the best performance without being just a stupidly expensive exercise for little gain.
The rover driveline is quite stout with the right operator. I have run a 305 Chev TH400 to an LT 230 with 36 inch tyres for a bush car with Mazidrive gear and a hypoid rear diff.
Std suspension with a mild lift also handles this.
I would do the engine to ZF Box.
1976 LR 90 Hybrid GONE
1985 RRC chev GONE
1997 D1 V8 GONE
1973 RRC Gone
1980'RRC Build in progress GOING
Disco wrecking 93 & 94
1993 RRC LSE
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