Thread: Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

Congratulations on the job!
Dam good job on that rocking horse too!

Cheers, Mick

I had a look at the horn over the weekend.
Although it sort of worked connected directly to a battery it turned out the insulation was breaking down which ended up becoming a short circuit.

Took it apart and the diaphragm was very rusty, internals looked OK but the insulation was decomposing.

Found another horn which didn't work, drilled out the rivets and all looked OK inside. Turned out it just needed the contacts cleaning. Dragged a strip of wet & dry throught the contacts a few times and it came back to life.
Just need to make a gasket (one broke as a I pulled it apart) and decide whether to look for rivets or just bolt back together.

The original horn is on the left, the one on the right had a 'tide mark' inside so they all fill with water if mounted incorrectly. There is a small hole in the diaphragm which either lets water in or air escape depending on which way the horn is mounted.






I've kept the old horn it may be useful for parts. I could also source some copper wire from a motor re-winder and re-wind the coil if I ever get desperate.


Colin

Gaskets made, horn then re-assembled using some aircraft rivets I found.





I sprayed it satin black, once it's dry I'll fit it.


Colin

Start a new job on Monday, just had 3 weeks off and still haven't found much time to work on Wallit.

After spreading Lilydale toppings all morning I decided it was time to sort out the electrical gremlins.

First job was to install the new indicator switch. Looks like a pattern part from the box it came in but better than the old one.
Straightforward job, most connections are through a multi pin plug just had to remove the dash to locate a couple of the flying wires, rest went to the fuse panel.







Decided to check out the ignition switch because you have to jiggle it a bit to get it to work sometimes. I got a pattern part but thought I'd have a go at repairing the old one. Noted the wiring colours on the switch body beside each Lucar spade.

Three tabs have to be bent back.




Then it pulls apart, damaging a retaining mechanism for the nylon part.




No wonder the contact was intermittant.




Cleaned it up, applied some silicon grease then had a couple of attempts at reassembling it. The retaining part that broke off holds it together to make assembly easier, because it was broken the assembly was slightly harder.

Held it together and checked it worked, then bent the tabs back over to hold it all together. Then noticed that I'd managed to wipe off all my wiring colours with my fumbling to assemble it !!
Printed off a wiring diagram, remembered that the vehicle was originally a petrol so only three wires, got back in the car and there are 5 wires !
The owner had wired in a separate switch for the glowplugs, there was a wire to the switch and a wire to a warning light.

Decided to fit the horn. Had a bit of fun getting it to fit, had to bend the bracket a bit so it cleared the radiator surround.

Re-connected the battery. Horn worked, ignition worked (without jiggling), glowplugs worked and Wallit started OK.

Horn in position.




Reversing lights don't work so that's next on the list.

Also need to bleed the brakes again, change the radiator, fit new hoses, finish welding up the doors........


Colin

I've just replaced the lower seal on the steering relay on my Series I 1956 Series 1 with PTO welder (home made) so I thought I'd check the oil in Wallit's steering relay. Added some on Sunday but thought I'd see if it came straight out.
Checked today and yes, it was flowing past the lower seal so dropped the steering arm tonight and removed the collar & endcap.

The lower seal had failed, the failure mode was interesting........the garter spring had rusted away !!
Looks like I'll have to pull the relay out & overhaul because it doesn't look pretty inside.
I'll have to remove the horn I just fitted to make room to remove the relay. It looks very oily round the outside so hopefully it comes out OK.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

----
Looks like I'll have to pull the relay out & overhaul because it doesn't look pretty inside.
I'll have to remove the horn I just fitted to make room to remove the relay. It looks very oily round the outside so hopefully it comes out OK.

Good luck.

.

If you let it leak long enough it may come out easily.

Decided that once I'd checked over the series I & Defender Tanami for the get together at the Caribbean tomorrow I'd look at the steering relay.

Took out the battery, then the battery tray (along with the air filter). Managed to get the two bolts through the relay undone and by taking most of the bolts out of the grille panel on that side managed to draw the bolts out.
There was just enough room to get a joint separator in there and with a short spanner tighten the bolt.




A tap with a wooden block and the relay was loose (hooray).





Stripped it down and despite the colour it wasn't too bad.




A couple of seals & gaskets, skim the sealing surfaces a repaint and it can go back together.



Colin